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<16 December 1915,> |

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Come to Pop Rock - valleys beneath | your feet, a mountain overhead. Come to see the Sun | God bathe Norfolk in the glory of the morning.

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It comes! Faint glimmers are the harbinger. Then | great shafts of flashing light pierce and dispel the | darkness. Out of the depths leaps Sol the Eternal. | Night has fled - a new day is | here.

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With light comes life from its slumber. Out of the | valleys come the cries of feathered creation. Bird | calls unto bird in mateship or defiance. On easy | wings they rise to sport their colors in the sun. | Songbirds are in the bush. Tiny wagtails dart by, | touch your shoulders in impudent glee or dance at | your feet in twittering joy. Over on the great rock | known as Phillip Isle a myriad birds rise from their | homes as if by signal given, and sally forth to seek | their food upon the sea. The giant albatross swoops | up, and volplanes back on unstirred wings. Birds of | song and strength and gorgeous colour - | of sea and land - are all | around.

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Climb from Pop Rock a little higher to the summit | of Mount Pitt. Beneath you the panorama of the last | peaceful addition to the possessions and | responsibilities of the Commonwealth. Winding roads | through park-like lands. Tall pines line the roads, | climb the hills, and touch the mountain top. Wild | flowers, wild tobacco, wild lemons, mingle by the | wayside. The passion vine throws itself upon jutting | rock or stalwart tree to spread its products to the | sun. Little gullies trend from the central plateau to | the edges of the cliffs. On the plateau and the | hillsides graze horses, sheep and cattle. In the | gullies palms and ferns and flowers and fruits are | intermingled. Pineapples, oranges, peaches, guavas, | yams, figs, potatoes, maize, wheat, coffee, bananas, | taro, melons, mangoes - every edible | product grows with ease and little labor. The soil to | the top of the highest hill is of the richest and of | great depth. The rainfall averages over 40 inches per | annum. The climate is of the mildest. There is no | piercing cold or enervating heat, no flies or fleas, | mosquitoes or malaria. No mad houses or gaols, or | politicians or pressmen. No rich or poor, or "pubs" | or pawnshops. No levies on the incomes of the living, | or extractions from the property of the dead. Nothing | reptilian, nothing ferocious. Pleasures are | plentiful, work is easy. The communal doctor attends | you in sickness, and the community buries you when | you die.

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This isle of the blest is 900 miles due east of | Queensland's southern boundary. It is five miles | long, three wide, and 20 in circumference. In its | north-west corner is Anson's Bay, and the receiving | station of the Pacific cable. Further south are the | headquarters of the Melanesian Mission. Here is the | beautiful church of St Barnabas, and here 200 boys | from the Solomons and New Hebrides are trained as | missionaries to their countrymen. A road sheltered by | great pines trends to the south-east to the wool shed | and the runs that were once the Longridge prison. | Just there the pine avenue comes to an end, but the | road goes on, winding amongst the hills down to the | shores of Sydney Bay.

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RELICS OF OLD TIMES

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Upon these shores are more ruins, ruins of | convictism - gallows, treadmills and | triangles - dark cells, dumb cells, | hells of the underground - ruins of | barracks, gaols and stores - ruins of | hospitals, mills and domiciles. Everywhere walls | crumbling, roofs falling, doors hanging from their | hinges. It is creepy in the daytime; at night, when | the ghost birds give their cries to the wind and | desolation, you hear lost souls in their agony, the | clank of chains, and you hurry by. Just there, near | to the roar of the surf, in that gloomy fortress, was | the last hell of Rufus Dawes. Once there, in that | dwelling on the knoll, lived the gentle Sylvia. On | the other side of the road, the road known as | Quality, is the dwelling wherein Parson North | periodically wrestled for his soul’s possession with | the demon of strong drink. It is a dead city. It once | contained 2,000 men, the majority moving in manacles, | the minority warders and soldiery, The humans | - bond and free alike - | have passed to their graves. The city | - its structures, penal and industrial | - its streets and walks - | its gardens, water works and sewerage system | - are fast fading to decay. Today only | a few families live within its boundaries. Near the | house of the commandant is a square begirt with | pines. In its centre convict officialdom had a | skittle alley or a bowling green - | which it was is forgotten. Along Quality-road are the | barracks and stores, loopholed for defence, like | castles of the middle ages. Further along are the | houses wherein dwelt the doctors, parsons, priests | and officers of convictism. Along the road, beneath | the pines, you pass to the cemetery, its tombstones | and quaint inscriptions fast smothering beneath the | wind-blown sands of the sea. The road continues over | "Bloody Bridge" and then winds upwards amongst the | hills - once more to the freshness, | brightness and pleasures of the homes of the people | of the plateau.

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POPULATION AND CHARACTERISTICS

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The population of Norfolk is 950. Of these 200 are | Papuans at the Melanesian Mission. The cable hands, | missionaries and white helpers, visitors, officials | and pensioners from the mainland, with their wives | and children, number 150. The other 600 are "the | Norfolk Islanders," descendants of the Bounty | mutineers, a mixture of English sailor and | dark-skinned belle of Papeete. From time to time others | have been permitted to mingle and to marry with the | island people. With one exception the admissions have | been of the white race, yet the blood of the Tahitian | first mothers shows itself in every family. In some | cases it is so strong that even after five | generations the color of hair and skin, the cast of | features, the modes of speech, the inflexion of the | voice, the gestures and mannerisms are pure Tahitian, | and when, as for some dance or festival, the feminine | head is adorned with the wild hibiscus, one sees | again the moonlight arm around the waist parade along | the beach of Papeete, and hears once more the easy | laughter and murmuring voices 'neath the palms. If | "blood tells," which is the blood? Is it that of the | sailor mutineers or that of the girls who went and | shared with them the horrors and the sorrows of the | after time?

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The characteristics of the people are much as they | were in Samoa and all the isles of Polynesia before | the days of the planter, the coolie laborer, the big | steamer and the tourist. Cried Kala the Netmaker to | the passing sailor in old Samoan days, |

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This is the spirit that walks abroad in Norfolk. | There is a welcome at every door, a seat on every | verandah, a place at every table, but it is a spirit | that is fast disappearing from the main places of | Polynesia. It is the influence of environment on | character. When a place is overrun with tourists, | generosity is exhausted; when it is flooded with | low-class Asiatics the Islander is degraded; when the | place is "commercialized", the land monopolised and | the siren of the planter screams "Come to work!" | there is no time to bask in the sunshine. But Norfolk | lies out of the track of the great steamers, and its | repellent coast guards its paradise with jealous | care.

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The area of Norfolk is 8,500 acres. With the same | density the population of Victoria would be over | 6,000,000. Roads, reserves and Crown lands in Norfolk | take up 2,787 acres. The 600 "Islanders" live upon | 4,741 acres, an average of eight acres per | individual, or 32 acres for each of the 150 island | households. The Islanders live, except for a little | fishing, on the products of the soil. Upon the same | basis the rural population of Victoria would be over | 4,000,000. It is only one-tenth that number.

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NO CAPITALISTS

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On Norfolk there are no mines of coal and gold and | other minerals to multiply the wealth of the place. | There are no transport and factory workers to provide | a home market for primary products. There are no | buyers and brokers, and travellers and commission | agents, to "facilitate business." There are no | capitalists or "captains of industry" that provide | the workers with work. There are no appliances of oil | or steam, or electricity or wind, or water power | - not even a donkey engine or a buzz | saw. The trees from which the homes are made are sawn | into the smallest lengths and sizes by unaided human | effort. Yet the people live in comfort.

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At Norfolk there is no safe harborage. The landing | place anywhere is a rock, the means of communication | between the ship and the shore are rowing boats. The | ship calls once a month, sometimes, as now, once in | two months, and if the sea is rough it steams away | without taking in cargo or landing it. If there are | perishable products for export they remain behind as | fertilisers. Yet the people live in comfort.

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LANDLORDS AND MONEY UNKNOWN

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Value is quoted in terms of money, but money is | practically unknown, Trade is either direct barter or | an interchange of credit - so much of | my product for so much of yours at a future date. A | deposit of skins, hides, seeds, coffee, timber, jam, | etc., with the local trader, secures in return cloth, | sugar and drapery. Yet, with all these primitives, | drawbacks and limitations, destitute of instruments | of exchange or machines that augment men's efforts, | without a natural harborage or assured access to the | markets of the world, the Norfolkers enjoy an ease of | life and a degree of material well-being not excelled | by the multitude in countries that are armed with all | the skill, science and mechanical aids and | auxiliaries of civilisation.

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On Norfolk there is no landlord, no tenant, no | rent collector, no bailiff, no evictor, no one to | seize your chattels and throw you out on the | roadside. Everyone has got a home, a real home, not a | thing rented. They have good furniture, a few acres | of cultivated ground, poultry and pigs, a few sheep, | a few cows and a couple of horses. Nearly everyone | has got a piano or an organ, a sewing machine and a | jinker.

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They don't get these things by long hours of | arduous toil continued year after year, broken only | by periods of anxious searching for someone to buy | their labor. They get it easy, a few hours of daily | labor, and even that can be postponed for a bit of | fun - a picnic, a race, or a tennis | match. There is no army of parasitical middlemen | living on the production of others; no gambling in | requisites, no dragging in and dragging out, and | perpetual additions of costs and profits, that makes | the consumer pay so much and gives to the producer so | little. Norfolk Isle is a demonstration of the small | amount of human effort necessary to secure home and | clothes and food and comfort.

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| That's the Norfolk Island | greeting. Not quick, sharp, staccato tones, but slow | and sweet and tender. What a difference comes to the | human voice when in the heart kindness and love and | generosity find a real abiding place.

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| | So the chat goes on, and then you say, "Good-bye" and | pass along.

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HOW DIFFERENCES ARE SETTLED.

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An official and an “islander have a dispute re | freights. It is an incident and an illustration. | says one. | says the other. Feeling runs high, | passions are strong, words are bitter, until language | falls exhausted. | says the islander. | retorts the official | is the query. | | Night comes, the official goes, a smiling face greets | him at the door. In this atmosphere differences are | settled or forgotten. Tomorrow smiles on peace | restored.

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DAYS OF JOY

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What will you do tomorrow? Come to the tennis. | Cascades will play longridge. Drop the work. | Everybody comes. Not cakes and ale, but cakes and tea | in plenty. Or is it that you love fishing? It is in | abundance - off the rocks or out in | the boats by Phillip and Nepean. Or will you wander | in the woodlands amidst the birds and flowers? Or | climb Mount Pitt, with dinner on Pop Rock, everybody | bringing something - poultry, sucking | pig or fruit? Or play cricket with the boys at the | mission, with Salamundi unshiftable at the wicket, | and the Bishop beseeching in Motu his Papuans to be | merciful? Or will you drive over to Bail Bay, or | Steele’s Point or the whaling station at the | Cascades? Or will you go swimming in Emily Bay, | safeguarded by the reef and lulled by the song of the | surf? Or will you go rides and drives along hill and | dale, through leafy avenues, to stop and chat by the | wayside and cottage door, ever to hear the fraternal | cry, |

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CONTRASTS

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Ah! Those days, those never-to-be-forgotten days, | those kindly faces, those sweet voices and that vista | sweep of ocean that swept a gulf between this isle | and that grab and grind and greed and lies and tricks | and intrigue that men call "civilisation." You, | workless, hungry ones, "Come in and stop a little | while." You men who govern and dare not do the things | your conscience calls you can but stop a little | while. Night comes. In the great places of the world | the shadows fall on trains and trams and life-spent | efforts, on dodges, schemes and devious devices. | Theatres are emptying in the cities - | the trenches are changing shifts on battle fronts. | Civilised society is forestalling, cornering, | stacking, raising of prices; flesh is ripping, bones | cracking; there is bayonet charge and shot and shell | and scattering limbs. Over in Norfolk comes night, | the rustle of wind in the pines, the surge of the sea | on the reef, shadows pass, silhouettes of girls | astride in the saddle, lovers beside them, others | behind them, homeward going from their pleasures, and | ever as they go and part at the crossways the cry | goes up in long-drawn cadences, |

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I sit and close my eyes and hear their gentle | voices call, "Come in and stop a little while."