Sydney Morning Herald 20 November 1858

THE FITZROY DIGGINGS.

FROM OUR SPECIAL COMMISSIONER

No. 8.

The Eagle, steamer, reached Rockhampton during the time was on my trip up the Fitzroy and had started some two or three hours prior to my return. I was thus too late, to forward, yon, my, usual despatch. This was no great loss, for there was absolutely nothing in the shape, of news to transmit to you. No intelligence has yet been reached from the prospecting party sent out, and the few persons now working out near Archer’s are barely getting a subsistence, their numbers diminishing daily. I was up at Canoona a day or two ago, and found that there was absolutely nothing doing there. To give you an idea of the state, of things there, I may mention that a large party of forty Chinese, who came up from Sydney about three weeks ago, applied to the Commissioner, through their, interpreter, to be supplied with passages back to Sydney, stating that they had been unable to earn rations during the time they had been on the diggings, and that they were now in a destitute condition. If a Chinaman cannot make his very simple ration, the more expensive one of a European must certainly be more difficult to procure. It is a common saying on all diggings that a Chinaman can live where an Englishman would starve; consequently if the Chinamen are starving, there must be a very poor prospect indeed for the Englishmen. Of course, the Commissioner could not interfere in the matter, and on the following day the Celestials departed to try their luck at a new rush that has just been opened about four miles to the west of Canoona. This spot is one of the localities that I myself prospected on my visit here, and though possibly men may make enough to keep them from starving, yet the want of water and the very small prospect obtained will forbid its being anything more than a stand by for those who appear determined to wait, as long as they can, the chance of something turning up. This feeling of hope in the ultimate success of this country as a gold-field, is very much more widely extended than would be bettered after the numerous, scenes of disappointment and panic that we have beheld. Many of those who have left here, some of them old diggers who have worked over the diggings of New South Wales as well as of Victoria, have assured me that they were certain gold would be discovered here some day; and on my asking why they left, they answered that the some day would probably be a very distant one, and that they had no means of hanging it out till then, even if they were inclined to lose their time. There are even now more persons on Canoona than I had expected to see, the number being between 500 and 600; but there is no appearance of permanence or of content, among them. Very few are working; the main body of the men hanging listlessly about the stores or other places, where there is a chance of meeting with their fellows, endeavour to kill time by every possible method. Neither has there been, much improvement in the place itself, only one or two of the storekeepers having ventured to put up anything more substantial than a canvas tent, on a spot which is weekly expected to be left deserted. The Government have erected two wooden buildings as a Court-house and Commissioner's quarters -- the latter not yet completed. The whole of the surrounding country has by this time been completely and perfectly prospected, but nothing worth working has been discovered, and the present flour-mill rush, is a kind of dernier ressort for those who have starvation staring them in the face. In Rockhampton the chief feature of, interest since my last letter has been the sale of town lots, which took place on Wednesday and Thursday last. The attendance was numerous, and the bidding very spirited, especially for the lots that front the reserved quay which runs along the river edge. These were sold in quarter acres, and realised very high prices. Only nine of them were offered, the others haying been withdrawn for the present, owing to the land, having been taken up by permanent buildings or under occupation licenses. The nine realised £572 10s., the highest price being £82 10s , and the lowest £14, making an average of £63 12s. per quarter-acre, or £254 8s. per acre -- rather a high price for land in a locality such as this, and taking existing circumstances into account. The blocks next to the river frontage also commanded high prices, and were sold at prices ranging from £70 to £20 the half-acre. The remaining lots, all half-acres, fetched from £10 to £25, according to position. On the first day, Wednesday, 131 lots were advertised ; of these, 13 were withdrawn, and for 36 there was no offer, leaving 85 actually sold; these realised the sum of £1185. On the second day, Thursday, 127, lots were advertised -- 8 were withdrawn, and for six there was no offer; 113 were therefore sold, and they realised £2923. The gross product of the two days' sale was £2108. The exodus from this spot is still going on, every vessel that leaves taking away as many passengers as the law will permit her to carry; and now Rockhampton presents a somewhat melancholy appearance, the tents, except immediately around the A. S. N, Company's store being very thinly scattered, and the population having dwindled down to some 300 persons. By the Victoria, and the Samson, which leaves tomorrow, and the Corio, which is notified to sail next Wednesday, most of our leading men will leave the Fitzroy, and a still further reduction be made in the number of our inhabitants. I have been credibly informed that the Victorian Government have paid the passages to Melbourne of over 2000 persons, the expense having been £5 10s. per head. In addition to this, a large number of rations have been issued, so that the Fitzroy rush will cost the Melbourne Government a very pretty sum, There has been a little difficulty here with the mechanics employed by the Government, the carpenters having struck on the eight hour question. Mr. Moore, the Clerk of Works, in the absence of orders, has not felt himself justified in acceding to the views of the men, and the result has been that many of them have left. I have managed to ascertain that the expedition to Broadsound, visited three ports -- Port Bowen, Shoal-water Bay, and Broadsound. The object of the trip was to discover a site for a seaport town, Keppel Bay presenting no locality suitable for such a purpose. The heavy bar across the entrance of Port Bowen, was also found to form a very serious impediment to its adoption as a port of shipment; whilst Shoalwater Bay was found to consist only of low mangrove banks, on which it was all but impossible to effect a landing, whilst no site for a town was to be found. The land around both these ports appeared to be poor. Broadsound offered better access, and a suitable site for a town was found at a spot called Upp or Head near the entrance of the Styx River, and I believe that this place will be recommended to the Government for a marine town. The reports from Captain Loring and the district surveyor are no doubt by this time in the hands of the Government, and the publication of these documents will make some amends to the public for having been deprived of the legitimate information that would have been given in your columns had I been permitted to accompany the expedition. I left Rockhampton early one fine clear morning, with the first of the flood tide, my object being to take a quiet survey of the upper portion of this now celebrated river. A Melbourne gentleman was my only companion, we having engaged the boat to ourselves, stipulating with the boatmen that we were to take our time and do as we liked, provided the passage did not occupy more than two days. All necessary supplies were laid in, not forgetting guns, powder, and shot, as we intended to have a regular battue amongst the ducks and wallaby. Passing through the reef of rocks which at the township of Rockhampton forms the head of the ship navigation, we found ourselves in a fine broad stream, with a depth sufficient to float a large-sized vessel, and running between high bold banks of lightly timbered and thickly grassed land. This kind of country continues for a distance of six miles, but before we had got that far we met with our first adventure. At about four miles from the township we observed something floating amongst the reeds and lilies that border the river on either side on the whole of its course. Too far off to discover what it was, a mysterious instinct almost immediately assured me that it was a human body. I mentioned my conviction, and we at once pulled to the spot. It was, indeed, the remains of some poor fellow who had been drowned. The body was floating face upwards, the arms raised and somewhat curved, and the hands tightly clenched. The only covering was a pair of blue dungaree trousers. The head and neck were completely black, and the features quite undistinguishable. It was in so advanced a stage of decomposition that we could not venture to do anything with it, so I contented myself by sending down to the police, by a boat that passed us shortly after, the account of what we had seen. I heard on my return to Rockhampton that the body was not picked up until the next morning, and that then only the trunk was to be found; head, arms, and legs being wanting, having no doubt formed a meal for some of the alligators that have been seen in that vicinity. The thought that this poor fellow, who had thus perished alone in the wild bush, with no eye to witness his agonised struggles for life, with no friend or mate to search for his remains, and found at last by strangers in such a state as to prevent the possibility of recognition -- that he had, perhaps, left behind him in his search for gold a mother -- brothers, sisters -- perhaps a wife and children -- whom in his sanguine dreams he had hoped to place beyond the chance of future want, and who perhaps are even, now waiting in anxious expectation of his return -- to think all this, and to know that neither friends nor relatives would ever hear the certainty of his fate, saddened both my companion and myself, and for a considerable time afterwards ducks and teal were allowed to rise from the water without our paying them the slightest attention. At length, however, we were roused by the appearance of a pair of splendid black duck, on which we speculated upon making a first-rate supper. We reckoned without our host in this matter, as the two darkies were too much alive to their own individual interest to consult our taste, and flew away before we got within shot. My companion declaimed bitterly against this, asserting that in Victoria the ducks would let you get much nearer to them. One of the boatmen replied that the birds of the Fitzroy were farther north than, those of Melbourne, and consequently much wider awake. With this conclusion my friend had to solace himself for his loss. About six miles from Rockhampton the river makes a sudden bend round to the west, whilst on the eastern bank the land falls off to admit the entrance of a large creek. This low land is exceedingly rich, from the floods that are continually overflowing it, and has all the luxuriant jungle character that we look for in tropical countries. The vegetation is most rank and, dense, the trees ~` principally the common soft-barked tea-tree -- growing to an enormous size, and bound together by wild vine interlaced with innumerable brilliant flowering creepers. After passing this corner, the river, once more resumes its high banks, of nearly the same appearance as those previously passed, high and bold, and seemingly sufficient to withstand all ordinary floods. Four miles further on, we come upon a small island, about half-a-mile in length, on the extreme point of which a boatman assured me that on one occasion he had seen a large alligator comfortably taking his siesta. He happened at that time to have only one passenger on board, a regular down-east Yankee, who tried all he knew to induce my informant to land him on the Island, to have a shot at the

"crittur."

With a due sense of his responsibility as a common carrier, to land his cargo safe, he refused this request, and Brother Jonathan was compelled to take a long shot, the only result of which was to make old long nose hurry back into the water faster than ever he had travelled before. We saw no alligator there, but we got a shot at a brace of ducks, and bagged one. By the way, the ducks here have a very beautifully variegated plumage The ordinary teal are black and white, very prettily marked, particularly about the head, two stripes of black feathers running down the neck from the hack of the head, and two circles of black surrounding the eyes. Others have all the splendid plumage and rich glittering colours of the pheasant, the feathers being stained in variegated rings, and shining in bronze and gold. A distance of ten miles from this island, having been passed over, we reached the southern extremity of Lang Island. There was nothing particularly noticeable in this distance, except when, here and there, a creek came into the river now on one side, now on the other; the country bearing the same character throughout, and being, without exception, the most verdant and thickly grassed bush that I ever passed over. We had several shots at teal and duck as we passed along, but the poor creatures had been so peppered by the passengers in the numerous boats that ply upon the river, that they were very shy, and we were never able to get within reasonable shooting distance, and though we wounded several, they managed to get away into the reeds and so were lost. What with our shooting, our looking for wounded birds, and our occasional surveys of the country, the sun was getting low, when we made Long Island, and so it was unanimously resolved to camp for the night, and a thick cluster of swamp oaks on the western bank was chosen as our sleeping place. At this spot the river divides itself -- one, the principal, channel, turning almost backwards on the previous course of the stream, and running round the southern extremity of the island. In this channel there is deep water throughout, but its course is tortuous, and it is four miles longer than the other, or the eastern channel; that is about five miles in length, but in dry seasons there are one or two spots over which it is all but impossible to float a boat. This renders it accessible only at high water or in seasons of flood. It was on the promontory formed by the bend taken by the western channel that we fixed our camp. A. fire was soon lighted, our billys -- I believe I have before explained that the billy is a tin saucepan with a cover, which amongst the diggers has superseded the quart pot of the original bushman our billys were put to the fire, our tea made and consumed, and our solitary duck split in two, roasted over the coals, and discussed. On first sitting down to partake of the evening repast, I found myself attacked on every aide by a diminutive black mosquito, which, though small, was not to be laughed at. With its sucker it penetrated not only the two shirts I wore -- an under shirt of merino, with a Crimean shirt over it -- but also managed to stir me up occasionally through a pair of stout moleskin trousers, irritating me at last to such an extent that we put a lot of green bushes on the fire and sat down to finish our tea in the smoke thus created. Mentioning duck, roasted, grilled, or devilled, no doubt gives you an idea of a very exquisite dish, and with the ordinary Sydney accompaniment of sage, onions, and the other et ceteras I have myself partaken of the same with considerable complacency; but eaten in the smoke of a green log fire, with a running defence against the attacks of the mosquitoes which alighted upon any spot over which the smoke did not pass, -- not cooked in a manner to please the disciple of a Soyer, and seasoned with black charcoal and ashes, it was certainly not the exquisite dish that an epicurean would have desired. However, a good appetite -- and we have all good appetites here, for we are constantly in the open air, day and night, and constantly taking exercise -- gave a relish to the duck, that not even the far famed Harvey, of sauce notoriety could have equalled, and we not only polished off the body but also

"chawed up"

the bones in regular Kentucky style. Supper being ended, we stretched out for a comfortable smoke, but our tiny persecutors became so pertinacious in their attacks that all the comfort departed I from the weed, and we had ultimately to beat a retreat to the boat, over which we rigged the sail tent fashion, and encased ourselves in our blankets as in a fortress of defence. I need hardly say that I was soon fast asleep; but I was not doomed to get over my persecutions so easily. I was suddenly awakened from a direful dream, in which I fancied that an alligator had tried to get into the boat, and, in so doing had put his immense paw upon my head, -- by a terrible crash and an explosion. I tried to start up, but could not, for my head was crushed down into my shoulder by the sidelong position of the boat, and my heels were raised up in the air. For an instant I fancied that my dream was true, and that the boat was really capsizing, whilst an unmistakeable pain in the forehead from a blow rendered me certain that I had been struck. With some floundering I got on to my knees, and then I found that we had left our boat too close to the edge of the reeds on landing at high water, and that the receding tide had left her all but dry, and had thus heeled her over. The blow and the explosion had both come from our guns which we had laid over the thwarts of the boat, and which had rolled down on, top of me, when the boat went over, one of them going over by coming in contact -- not with my head -- but with some of the timbers of the boat. This was the last annoyance of the night, the remainder of which passed over as all nights do when men are fast asleep; and with the first light of morning we started on the prosecution of our journey. We followed the eastern channel, through which the river narrowed very perceptibly, the island banks being low and marshy, with large swamps extending over it. In this style it proceeds for about three miles, when a spot called "The Narrows" is reached. Here the river has broken through a long neck of land, forming it into small islets, between which, except in one place there is barely passage for a boat; and I was informed that, in dry seasons, persons could pass here almost dryfooted. From here to the end of the island, the right hand bank of the stream is low, and very thickly wooded, every flood overrunning this part of the country very extensively, and causing, under the heat of a tropical sun, a luxuriance of vegetation that is only to be equalled elsewhere under a similar conjunction of circumstances. All along the river, the banks and the adjacent shores were covered with a long reedy-looking succulent grass, which would furnish excellent food for cattle whilst green. Passing the end of the island, and coming into the main stream, we found the river again widened out into a magnificent sheet of water, overhung on each side with immense tea-trees, which projected far into the water below. These trees are very different from the stunted small-leaved specimens of the genus that are to be found in Sydney. In size they rival the giant productions of some of our southern brushes, whilst their leaves are long, straight, and pendant, the leaf bearing twigs drooping down from the boughs in the same style as the weeping willow, which tree in appearance the tea-tree of the Fitzroy very much resembles. On the extremity of these twigs, and generally within six or seven feet of the water, were numerous nests of the Tailor bird -- very beautiful specimens of bird architecture, being formed by inter-twining the leaves of the tree with small twigs, moss, hair, and the softest bark of the tea-tree. The entrance to the nest is, from the upper end, and it is covered with a long projecting eave, which secures the young birds from rain. They are placed in this position to prevent the snakes and goanas -- both of very large size -- which infest the river banks, from regaling themselves upon the eggs or young therein deposited. In addition to these, I observed in several places where the river was bare and precipitous, and where portions of it had been washed out or fallen, thus forming a hollow, that very large numbers of a very small kind of marten had congregated together, all busily engaged in constructing their nests of mud, which were ranged in long close lines, on the roof of the hollow. The little creatures were all occupied at their work, some at the water's edge working up and tempering the day, others clinging to the half formed nests, beating in with their wings the morsels of clay already prepared, and keeping up the while a continual twittering. Besides these, there were numerous nests of other birds of the larger kind, built high up in the trees. At this part of the river I also remarked, for the first time, a very beautiful tree, which got more and more frequent as we mounted the stream; it has a large bright leaf, very much resembling that of the fig in shape, but rather darker in colour. The branches spread out almost at right angles from the trunk, but instead of being in a series of rings like the fir, they are alternate, getting shorter as they reach the top. Through this magnificent scenery we travelled for a distance of nine miles, our boatmen pulling against a strong down current, owing to a recent fresh in the river, and we landed on an extensive bank of sand and pebbles to get breakfast. Here was found a rich collection of stones and pebbles that would have gladdened the heart of a geologist. The spot was low, and had been cut up into numerous channels by repeated floods, which on subsiding had left three large banks of debris that had perhaps travelled down hundreds of miles from some of the many tributaries of the stream. We made a collection of stones, and tried to shoot some of the many cockatoos that we saw about, but "pretty cocky," like the ducks, was too wide awake for us, and we only dropped one, and he managed to get away from us in the long grass, through which we were afraid to venture far, as it was so long that at a distance of ten or twelve feet it was impossible to see each other. We had to content ourselves therefore with bacon and cheese for breakfast, but our matutinal journey had sharpened our appetite to such an extent, that anything, however humble, that had offered would have been speedily disposed of. We once more embarked; the business of pulling the boat up against the fresh becoming now a very serious one, more especially where narrows occurred, the current in such places running down so swiftly as to give our two men as much as they could do to make head against it. At the end of the low sandy point, where we breakfasted, the first rapids occur -- the river being here narrowed to about one-third of its ordinary width. A long pull and strong pull was necessary to get us over this difficulty, and then we had before us for a distance of nine or ten miles, the same broad sheet of water -- the same bold banks, and the same luxuriant vegetation that had characterised our previous progress. There would have been a sameness in the unvaried richness of the shore on either side, were it not that at intervals creeks made their way in through the high banks, breaking them up, sometimes into small islets, sometimes into long jutting peninsulas, and always forming mimic deltas, upon which vegetation was most wild and profuse. Here and there, too, deep bays occur; their placid waters, which the current does not reach; having a surface smooth and polished as a sheet of glass. After these nine or ten miles had been passed over, we reached the Alligator Creek, which runs in a straight line, into the Fitzroy, the river itself making a strong bend towards the west. At its embouchure, Alligator Creek is very nearly as wide a stream as the Fitzroy, and being more directly in a line with the previous course of the river than the river itself, it has been on more than one occasion mistaken for the main stream. After leaving Alligator Greek, the northern bank of the river rises up bold and precipitous fully fifty feet above the level of the water, maintaining this elevation the whole of the way to the landing place, a distance of six or seven miles. In this space the rapids and narrows are of frequent occurrence, the navigation being rendered still more difficult by snags and shallows. Through all these perils and dangers which beset the river track, more particularly during time of flood, we reached the landing place in safety, between four and five o'clock.