Sydney Morning Herald 1 July1857

THE GOLD-FIELDS OF NEW SOUTH WALES.

MUDGEE TO MURRENDI

FROM OUR SPECIAL COMMISSIONER

No. 12.

THE good folks of Mudgee are greatly irate at having no branch escort from their township to Sydney. They have, no doubt, some cause for being annoyed at their being deprived of this advantage, seeing that a great deal of gold finds its way into the hands of buyers there. I had no means to ascertain the precise amount, but some idea of the quantity may be gathered from the fact that the branch of the Bank of New South Wales established here had, during the fourteen weeks prior to my arrival, purchased no less than 3674 ounces, being an average per week of 262 ounces. These fourteen weeks are taken, as being about the period when the first gold from Murrendi came into Mudgee. The difference is very perceptible, for, when the escort ran before, there were sent down during the last nine months of its working 4460 ounces of gold, and £11,592 in cash, being an average of only 114 ounces per week. Besides this, much of the gold that before found its way to Mudgee, in consequence of the escort thence, is now forwarded by a different channel, in order to secure safety of transport. And yet the gold weekly obtained by one establishment now more than doubles that formerly sent down by the whole of the buyers in Mudgee. I was told that, besides the Bank of New South Wales, there are some four or five other firms into whose hands the gold chiefly comes, and thus the gross quantity purchased here must be very considerable. Great inconvenience consequently follows, as the gold has to be forwarded to Avisford, a distance of 25 miles, over a heavy mountain road, in order to catch the escort, or has to accumulate in Mudgee until some safe means of forwarding it to Sydney may offer themselves. On the occasion of my visiting the Bank, the manager showed me some 1600 ozs. of gold that he had on hand, waiting for a chance to transmit it safely by either one route or the other to Sydney; whilst other persons in the town are placed in precisely the same awkward position. The escort from Mudgee was put a stop to, towards the end of August last year, and the inconvenience was never so greatly felt as it has been latterly, since the opening of the Murrendi diggings; and in consequence a very numerously signed petition for the re-establishment of the escort has been forwarded to the Government, with a most sanguine hope on the part of the petitioners that their request will be complied with. I have mentioned these facts, certainly with the view of making the injustice of the case apparent, but more with the object of showing how far the yield of gold from the new diggings at Murrendi has affected the weekly amount of gold purchased in Mudgee, the point nearest to this gold-field. Leaving Mudgee at the opposite point, the N.W., to which I had entered it, I started on my way to Murrendi. The road for a distance of about five miles traverses the valley of the Cudgegong, and then cuts across some steep hills, called the Stony Ranges, down into Bruce's Creek. As there had been some diggings at the Gratti Creek; I turned off to the left from this road, but was not rewarded for my detour, as I found nothing but a deserted diggings to inspect. Holes half sunk here and there, and others that had been bottomed nearly full of water, were all that met my sight; not a solitary fossicker was left behind to give me the history of the rise and fall of the Gratti diggings. No very great amount of work had been done, and I should think not more than a dozen or twenty men had ever been employed here. They had apparently been deserted for some time, the diggers having gone off en masse to some new rush. They presented a most melancholy appearance, and I turned away from them with something like impatience, as I thought of the labour thus wasted that might have been fairly remunerated by only some few days additional work. But such is the gold miner -- let him but hear of a new rush, of some great find, and he is off, though he be within two feet of bottoming what might perchance turn out a rich hole. I now cut across the broken stony ranges that bordered Gratti Greek, and came down upon Bruce's Creek, and consequently upon the main Murrendi road. This creek is one of the tributaries of the Meroo, and has been, or is now being, worked through a great portion of its length. It runs in a bed of slate, the reefs of which jut up here and there, as though they would dispute with the waters the right of passage through their domain, and is hemmed in on either side by vast precipitous and rugged hills that tower up majestically to a height of 2000 or 3000 feet. Between fifty and sixty men are at work, here in the various bends of the creek, where deltas of alluvial soil have been deposited. The sinking is light, through a reddish kind of earth, and afterwards through, a stratum of water-worn boulders down to the fine grit or gravel in which the gold is found. The men here were particularly chary about giving me any information, and regarded me palpably with an air of suspicion; however I luckily fell across a party of Swiss, from whom I learnt that all the parties with which they were acquainted, were making good wages on the creek, but nothing more, the gold being very fine and pure, and not in large quantities and that there had been no instance of a heavy find. The road passes down this creek, sometimes in the bed of the creek itself, at others on the ranges by its side, to its junction with the Meroo; it then runs that river down for couple of miles, and as the traveller fancies he is shut in irretrievably amongst hills from which there is no exit, it turns off over a heavy range and then, by a gentle descent on the other side falls upon some fine broad flats that border the river on both sides, and brings one in sight of Murrendi. The Murrendi diggings are situated on the banks of the Meroo, about four miles above its junction with the Cudgegong River. The Meroo, here makes a large sweeping bend from about N. to S.W., and then back again to N.E. It is on an extensive flat of about three-quarters of a mile in width, called the Cricketer's Flat, running from the deep bed of the river up to the base of the lofty ranges that shut in the stream, that the main diggings are situated. These are on the northern side of the river, on land held by G. H. Cox, Esq., M.L.A.; under the preemptive right, whilst the land on the opposite side is that gentleman's purchased property. The diggings on the Cricketer's Flat extended over an area of about half a mile in width by some three miles in length; the lead -- or run of paying holes -- however has not extended over much more than about three rods in width along that length. This spot had not been worked for much more then about fifteen or sixteen weeks, and yet the whole surface seemed cut up with hardly a spot left in which a shaft could be put. On the margin of the river, and towards the base of the mountains, out of the immediate run of the sinkings, the tents were clustered very thickly, whilst here and there a tent standing in the very midst of the shafts showed that some lucky digger had found a spot that he considered worth looking after. The total absence of huts, of slab or bark, was the first thing that struck me on coming on to the ground. All, even to the storekeeper, were giving under canvas, although the weather was now bitterly cold, and the breezes of evening and the frosts of morning would have rendered some more substantial residence much more enticing. This was accounted for, on my mentioning the fact to some of the older settlers, by the very recent opening of this field, the diggers being mostly new hands on the ground, and as yet uncertain whether the field would be likely to turn out a permanent working place of not. Besides the Cricketer's Flat, there is another point or flat on the opposite bank of the river, just above the boundary of Mr. Cox's purchased land, where some 50 or 60 men are at work, and where a great deal of ground has been turned up. The whole population of Murrendi reaches somewhere 1200, of which about 800 are diggers, the balance being made up by women, children, and persons in trade. There did not seem to be the air of steady work about the place that I expected to find on so new a diggings. On the contrary, a great number of men seemed to be lounging about lazily with their hands in their pockets or standing in groups at the back of tents, sunning themselves, cursing the gold-fields generally, and this field in particular. To tell the truth, I met more regular crawlers here than I encountered throughout the whole of the other gold-fields put together, and consequently l heard a larger amount of grumbling. The find of gold, however, has been exceedingly partial on this field, and whilst some have made good hauls others, have barely got wages and, as a matter of course, those who expected the gold to come to them without hard work on their part, have got but very little. It has been owing to this inequality of distribution of the auriferous deposits that the population of these diggings has fluctuated greatly. Shortly after the first rush, the number of diggers touched very closely upon 2600. Many of these got disheartened by degrees, and left for newer rushes or more favourite localities, though for some weeks, the arrivals nearly counterbalanced the departures. Gradually, however, the arrivals slackened and the departures increased, until the number dwindled down to that at which I at present estimate it. Even now, numbers are leaving daily, though I was assured that there were more diggers arrived than departed. Noticing all this, I took some considerable pains to get at the amount of gold produced, but was baulked in so doing at the very outset. None of the storekeepers were then, buying gold regularly, although, they took small quantities in payment for goods from their customers. One gentleman, who at one time purchased for the Bank of New South Wales, told me that in twelve weeks he bought on the field 3300 ounces, and at that time there were two or three other buyers; besides which an agent of the Oriental Bank used to visit Murrendi weekly for the purpose of buying gold. It was imagined by gentlemen who had been on the ground during the whole time, that for the first twelve weeks after this field was opened, the average weekly yield had exceeded 1000 ounces. Neither was it at all more easy to get at individual cases of success. I found the men all ready enough to communicate anything that did not relate to themselves; and the answers to the question of

"How are you doing?"

were always either

"Middling,"

or

"Just rubbing on,"

or

"Hardly making wages."

They told me also that it was absolutely impossible to say what any one party was doing, because though they might see them pan out but very little gold from the washing-stuff, yet they might have paid themselves well by the nuggets got in sinking, as these nuggets are distributed through the whole stuff, sometimes within a few inches of the surface, and sometimes lower down, there being nothing whatever to guide the digger in looking for them. The sinking ranges from ten feet to seventy feet; the larger proportion of the holes being from thirty-five feet to forty feet in depth, the difference in depth being made up principally by the greater or less quantity of alluvial deposit to be gone through. After getting through the alluvium, a stratum of coarse gravel occurs, under which lies a deep bed of red clay; to this succeeds a white-coloured pipeclay, in which are bedded large boulders of slate, quartz, porphyritic rocks, &c. The gold is found in a light drift, lying under this mass, and is rather coarse in its character. It is highly-coloured, and is considered generally not to be quite so pure in quality as the finer drift gold of the Meroo. Some very fine large nuggets have been found here. One of 2½ ozs. was shown to me in Mudgee, whilst I heard accounts of several of from 8 oz to 12 ozs., and saw some three or four. There are only two public-houses on the diggings, one on either side of the river, but the dearth of licensed drinking places is fully made up for by the quantity of unlicensed places of the kind, as the latter abound here to an extent such as I never witnessed upon any gold-field, even in the early and non-licensing days of the digging. There are some dozen of known grog-tents, whilst refreshment and boarding establishments abound, at all of which spirituous refreshment is as easily obtainable as any other. There have been numerous convictions by the Avisford Bench, this gold-field being in the Avisford district, for sly-grog selling; but the distance from head-quarters, it being some 20 or more miles, renders the Commissioner's visits somewhat infrequent, and no constable of any kind being stationed there, the community have an opportunity to do pretty well what they like. Many of the better disposed of the diggers complained very bitterly to me of the manner in which they were thus left entirely unprotected to shift for themselves, and urged -- perhaps with some, show of reason -- that they ought not to be asked to pay the miners' right of 10s., until something had been done for them.

"The Government seemed to think,"

said they,

"that we can get on without police or commissioner, so as we must try to do so, we may as well save our 10s."

All the work hitherto done has been by sinking, no trial of surface stuff having yet been made; neither has the bed of the creek been worked to any extent, further than to turn up the rough boulders in the search for nuggets. The operations have also been confined to the two spots I have mentioned, forming altogether an area of barely three square miles, much of which has not been worked. No machinery has been used, no ingenuity of any kind has been shown here, to aid the manual labour of the digger, all has been done by rude main strength, as in the very earliest digging days; and the construction of a very rough kind of dam across the stream, in order to fix a sluice, was such a rarity that it was pointed out to me as a work of art. When this community shall have settled down, and the stragglers have departed, I shall look to see this gold-field worked upon more system, and, consequently, upon more paying principles