THE GOLD-FIELDS OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
SOFALA TO BATHURST.
FROM OUR SPECIAL COMMISSIONER
No. 21.
LEAVING Sofala by the N.E , the road to Bathurst mounts the heavy thinly timbered
ranges that bound the Turon river at that side, striking the Oakey Creek about three miles
from the river. Up this it proceeds, winding amongst the holes and heaps of refuse stuff
across the brow of the ridge, and then through the Wattle Flat and Solitary Creek, its line
bordered by numerous rude though neat huts, having small patches of garden ground
attached to them, and sometimes even paddocks fenced in around them.
Digging was being carried on here with great spirit, the whole of the ground paying well
and regularly that is, giving good wages to all employed. After passing the last of the
shafts, the track leads through thick scrub along the crest of heavy stony ranges, and then
skirts their sides in a gradual descent, until it comes upon the Wyagden Hill, down which
it goes with a heavy fall, over a road completely whitened with abrated quartz, into a
beautiful valley, that extends for about a mile across in fine alluvial flats, from the deep
hills that border it on either side. For about a mile-and-a-half the road traverses the valley,
until it reaches an inn kept by one James Short.
It had been nearly one o'clock before I left Sofala, and my horse being leg weary with his
long journeyings, travelled but slowly, and the result was that it was pitchy dark, besides
being exceedingly cold, before I made the inn. I had my misgivings on dismounting, for I
found the parlour -- the only place in which a man could sit down -- was crowded with
travellers, some of whom were already far advanced towards inebriation. However, my
horse was dead beat, it was dark, and further, the next inn was eight miles off, so I had no
alternative but to make the best of a bad position. Without at all anticipating the
scenes that followed, I had a dislike at being forced to be a witness of wild scenes of
revelry, particularly on a Sunday night. I found out that the next day was the opening of
the Bathurst Quarter Sessions, and that consequently the house was full of persons
travelling thither, either as witnesses, prosecutors, defendants, or jurors. I pass over all
the inconvenience I experienced. The one only room for meals -- compelling me to wait
till all had finished supper, before I could begin, seeing that I had no particular fancy for
supping with men the half of whom were roaring drunk by that time -- and the only
room for sitting in, driving me out to a promenade in the verandah, to escape the riot and
confusion within. I pass over this; but the frightful orgies that followed I cannot but
mention. I hope, too, that this letter may attract the notice of some of the magistracy of
that locality, that some inquiry into Mr. Short's mode of conducting his house may be
made by them. Some three or four of the persons present were very much the worse for
liquor, and shortly after supper brandy, &c, began to be consumed at a great rate; the
moment the calls for drink at all flagged, the landlord stirred up his customers, first of all
by getting them to "have a step,"
that is, to dance; and at last when all seemed
dull, he challenged one of them, a tall Irishman, to spar with him for nobblers round. The
Irishman was exceedingly drunk, and had been very noisy, but was gradually subsiding
into sleepy quietude, when this challenge was given. He was very unwilling for the trial
of skill, but was ultimately forced into it by the landlord and the others; and soon at it
they went. This work continued for some time, until by dint of ill-usage, not only from
the landlord but from those around, the Irishman got enraged, and seizing a candlestick,
struck at Mr. Short in a manner that would have made the matter still more serious had
the blow taken effect. Some of those present, however, immediately interfered. The man
was thrown down and disarmed, after some fearful oaths and blasphemies on all sides.
This skirmish got some of the noisiest drunkards off the scene, and, with very little hope
of getting to sleep, I myself went to bed. Sure enough these orgies were continued until
after midnight, singing being now substituted for dancing and fighting, some of the songs
selected being of any but a decent character. I need hardly tell you that I spent a
miserable night, or that it was with the greatest delight I quitted this disorderly
establishment with the first light of the following day.
Across some short stony ranges down to a fine cultivated plain, which formed a regular
little township, I travelled, the mist of early morning gradually thickening into a regular
fog, which stuck to me all the way to Bathurst, being so heavy on the Plains that nothing
beyond five or six yards distant was perceptible. Through this my horse, who had not
apparently fared much better than myself on the preceding night, shambled wearily and
heavily down to the Macquarie River, across the bridge, and very much to his and my
satisfaction brought me into Bathurst, the poor animal making a most determined attempt
to get towards every stable I passed on my way to the Royal.
Bathurst is, without exception, the finest of our inland towns. It is built on the banks of
the Macquarie River, almost in the centre of an extensive plain, and at the foot of a series
of gentle undulations or downs, over some of which an extension of the town has been
carried. Its streets are broad, and laid out in straight lines, from East to West, and from
North to South, intersecting each other at right angles. Tue houses are regularly built, are
all neat and well kept, and many of them, shops and public buildings, would not disgrace
a leading thoroughfare of the metropolis. In the centre of the town is a large square, or
rather a vacant spot of ground, for I believe it is a reserve for public buildings -- one side
of which is formed by the gaol, in front of which stands the Court House, both of which
are built upon the ordinary New South Wales model. And here I may remark, that it
appears to my unprofessional eye, as if the one plan and the one specification had
sufficed for all the court-houses and all the gaols in the colony; there being so little
variation, except only in the materials used, and the dimensions of the edifice, that the
traveller who has seen these buildings at any one place, would never be at a loss as to
their use when he saw the counterparts of these edifices elsewhere. The court-house is,
however, a sufficiently handsome building, though, this, with the adjacent gaol placed in
the most prominent position in the town, certainly detracts very much from the prestige
of the place; reminding one, as it does, of days that all who have passed through them
would willingly have forgotten. In one part of this square or reserve, the Episcopalian
church is situated; it is an unpretending edifice, though not without architectural grace; at
all events it is characteristic of the purpose it has to serve, though barely large enough for
the congregation that frequents it. The Presbyterian church also forms a prominent mark
for the eye of the new comer; its lofty proportions and tall steeple made still more
remarkable by the naked red brick of which it is constructed, catch the attention at once.
It is a plain edifice, but noble looking from its very simplicity. The Catholic church
stands at the rear of the gaol, and is a rambling kind of edifice, that appeared to me, most
likely from the extent of area that it occupied with its numerous buildings -- almost too
low for good effect. A fine piece of land, however, at the other end of the church reserve,
and facing into another street, was being dug out for the foundations of a new church --
some £4000 that had been subscribed being already in hand for the purpose. The
Wesleyan chapel it also close by, and is as usual a very plain edifice, too small at present
for its numerous congregation. The earth had been dug out, and the stone had been
prepared for the foundations of a new building, the first stone of whioch was to be laid a
few days after my departure. The gaol is an exceedingly strong and well constructed
building, the excellent management of its governor, Mr. Chippendale, having rendered it
one of the most complete establishments of the kind that I have seen in the colony. In
addition to the main building, in which the prisoners are kept, Mr. Chippendale has
caused to be constructed from the prison labour, a row of very neat brick buildings,
within the walls, as residence for himself and also for the turnkeys employed. The vacant
ground inside has been laid out partly as exercise ground for the prisoners, made secure
in every respect, and partly as a garden; the necessary drainage for the spot lies low and
shelving, is managed in a most admirable manner, not leaving the slightest chance of the
drains being made available as a means of escape. It is hardly necessary, from what I
have already said of the good management that prevails, to remark upon the very cleanly
appearance of the whole building, wards, &c. as well as of the men confined. The
average number of persons of all kinds, under sentence, awaiting trial, &c, is about 70.
The court-house is a rather pretentious building, serving for Circuit Court, Quarter
Sessions, and Petty Sessions. It is well arranged in its interior, rooms being provided for
all the necessary purposes. On ordinary occasions, a resident stipendiary magistrate, Mr.
Palmer, presides over the Police Court, in which an average of about six cases a day are
disposed of; the committals for trial during the present year, up to the middle of June,
were twenty-one, making an average of about four a month. The police for the district
consists of a chief constable, three district, and fourteen ordinary constables; of these the
chief constable, one district constable, and six men are engaged on duty in the town itself,
the rest being stationed at different points in the district, With so small a force great
complaints are made, as the duty of escorting prisoners falls very heavily upon the men.
The number of public-houses, as compared with the population, is much greater in
Bathurst than in any other town of the colony, there having been no less than 52 general
licenses issued last year by the Bathurst Bench, for the towns of Bathurst and Kelso; the
number for the district being 15. The reason alleged for granting so many licenses, is that
during the sitting of the Circuit Court there is so large an influx of persons, that
accommodation to the extent named is absolutely required. It is reckoned that during the
sitting of this Court, in addition of at least one thousand persons is made to the population
of Bathurst. The Small Debts Court sits every sit weeks, the cases numbering from 30 to
40 each sitting. Such, of the unpaid magistrates as reside out of town attend to their duties
only when summoned to attend special or general meetings of the Petty Sessions; for the
ordinary conduct of business, therefore, reliance is only to be placed on the presence of
those resident in town.
There are three schools established under the Denominational Board, but as yet no
National school has been formed here. A handsome schoolhouse is being erected in the
immediate vicinity of the Episcopalian church, to which it is attached. Besides public,
there are also several very excellent private scholastic establishments.
The hospital is a low one-storied building to the east of the town, forming with its narrow
verandah a true type of the old colonial style of architecture, being all blank wall, pierced
with holes for doors and windows. It has been for some years handed over by the
Government to the management of the inhabitants themselves, and is now supported very
liberally, as I was given to understand, by voluntary subscription of course with a grant in
aid from the Government. It is cleanly, evidently under good management. It affords
relief, ordinarily, to an average of about 25 patients, though as many as 40 could be
accommodated on a pinch. I noticed several Chinese patients there on the occasion of my
visit.
The population of Bathurst has not perceptibly increased by immigration since the census
was taken, though I was told on all sides that the increase in the natural way, by births,
must be something very great, -- Bathurst, like all the western country, being great in
children and pigs. Buildings were being run up in every direction, more particularly on
the skirts of the town, where numerous town lots have recently been sold. The value of
business premises here may be guessed from the fact that only a short time prior to my
visit, two corner lots, of a quarter-acre each, of course with good buildings on them, sold
at £1000 each. The lots were in a good position for trade, being situated at one corner, the
north-west, of the squire or reserve I have before mentioned, and on one stood an hotel
and theatre. House rent generally ranges high for business premises, in commanding
localities, though not so heavy proportionately as in Sydney,
In addition to the bridge over the Macquarie River, several smaller bridges have been
erected in some of the bye streets of the town, where the heavy wash of the torrents of
water that pour down in the wet season has worn deep and dangerous gullies that
rendered the streets impassable until these bridges spanned the chasm. There are yet
several dangerous spots requiring similar convenience.
Kelso, on the eastern bank of the Macquarie, is an exceedingly neat and pretty township,
with, some beautiful residences surrounding it. It stands at the foot of a bald range, its
neat white-fronted houses, church spire, and verdant gardens forming a delightful picture
upon the wide extended plain.