Sydney Morning Herald 18 August 1857

THE GOLD-FIELDS OF NEW SOUTH WALES.

TUENA TO GOULBURN.

FROM OUR SPECIAL COMMISSIONER

No. 24.

AFTER leaving Tuena, the road to Goulburn lies over heavy mountain ranges, now ascending a gully, then piercing a scrub on the stony summit of a ridge, then again descending by a winding pathway along the sides of almost perpendicular hills, or dipping boldly down the face of some prominent spur of the hill that offers a more than usual opportunity of descent. I have, however, so frequently described mountain roads, that now, coming towards the close of my journeyings, I begin to find that descriptive adjectives are wanting, and to fear that the reader, not having before his actual eye the scenes I have so very lamely described, may be led to fancy that there is a complete and general sameness. To the unpractised bushman, one gully may seem exactly the same as another, the difference being imperceptible to him, whilst to the old denizen of the forest every minute object speaks aloud; a dead limb, a prominent tree, a variation in the species of timber or in the undergrowth, or in the feed, a leaning of the boughs to this side or to that, the appearance of the bark of the trees, and a thousand other peculiarities too minute for description in so general a sketch as mine has been, are all noted in a coup d'oeil, by the old bushman, and make up the most important feature of his description. These distinguishing marks are they that make the difference between the hills and valleys of the north, and those of the south. To read my description you would no doubt take them to be the same -- the same generic features certainly are there: the abrupt hills, the heavy timber, the deep gullies, and rude chasms, worn by the rush of water -- all these are found in both places; but yet there is a distinct and palpable difference, though made up of so many minute circumstances, that, unless all the points in which the change becomes perceptible had been noticed in the first instance, they could not be appreciated in the last. Nor, do I think the pen could adequately convey all that which only the eye of the experienced traveller can mark, since, as I have before remarked, I have over and over again heard persons declare that this and that gully were exactly alike: when I could at once perceive the difference, though I could not convey the same impression to my companion, who had failed in the first instance to mark certain features in the scene, and consequently could not value the alteration when his attention was drawn to it. However, be this as it may, to go with one jump to Binda, a distance of 25 miles, the road throughout lies over a hilly country, until it comes down upon the swampy flat upon which Binda and its numerous neat and well-cultivated farms are situated. From Binda, the track takes up the Crookwell River, which it crosses and recrosses several times, until at Mr. A. Long's very pretty farming establishment it takes up some low stony ranges of schist and quartz, the highest point here of the great dividing Range, since the Crookwell runs to the west, into the Abercrombie, whilst the waters on the other side run eastward and fall into the Wollondilly, which, joining Cox's River, runs into the Nepean, and finds its way into the sea by emptying itself into the Hawkesbury. The greater part of the way from Binda to Flecknell's Inn, a distance of 30 miles, was over what appeared to me to be a flat table land, exceedingly swampy, in fact so much so, that the road ran at times a full half-mile through water, which however never more than reached my horse's knees. Occasionally low rotten ranges, covered with dwarf timber, intervened between these morasses, and at times also low stony ranges, covered with mountain oak and ash, and dwarf and gnarled spotted gums afforded a relief that could not be fully understood and appreciated, except by one who had journeyed through, I can't say over, such a watery way as this. From Flecknell's the evidences of heavy rain became stronger and stronger as I proceeded to wards Goulburn. The distance thence is only sixteen miles. The road runs over some beautiful low and well grassed ranges into a long gulley, along which it proceeds for eight or nine miles; now on one side, now on the other, then crossing a low range, or skirting the side of a ridge, or dipping into a scrub, as the boggy nature of the ground or the protruding of the rocks rendered a detour necessary. By degrees the gulley opens out into a fine broad creek, with richly grassed plains on either side, the timber becoming more and more scant, until it fails altogether over large areas, in which the eye wearies itself in tracing the windings of the road that appears jet black, or red or white, according as the soil through which it cuts is varied. Reaching these plains, I know at once that Goulburn is near, and soon the houses appearing in the distance tell me that I am not mistaken. The road thereupon becomes lighter, the ground is got over more readily, though certainly as regarded my nag, with some persuasion, rather stronger than mere words, and I reach Goulburn, almost fancying myself, from the appearances of civilisation around me, once more at home. Goulburn like Bathurst, has been laid out on an extensive tract of plain country. These plains stretch away to a long distance to the southward, and to a less distance towards the east and west, whilst to the North, heavy ranges of iron bark rise up from the level almost immediately on quitting the township. The population of this town by the last Census, was 1770 souls, and since then there has been no addition by settlement, but if anything rather the reverse. It is however a very fine healthy spot, and the population increases steadily every year, in the natural way. The usual accompaniment to children -- pigs -- was wanting here, or at all events was not so prominently forced upon the attention of the traveller. Considering its size, there is an air of business and progress about the place that is most gratifying. As the centre of a very large and extensive agricultural district, it has for many years past engrossed the whole business of supplying the small farmers, or cockatoo settlers as they used to be termed, that are planted round it ; whilst the diggings in its vicinity have naturally given it some considerable impetus and standing. It engrosses the whole or nearly so, of the traffic with Tuena, and shares with Sydney in the supply of the Braidwood diggings. The town is very handsomely laid out, on fine gently undulating ground; the streets, intersecting at right angles, have good broad roadways, such as Sydney would be much the better for possessing -- though here again, the gaol, planted in the middle of the town, and fronted by a lock-up, and backed by the Court House, forms a sad drawback to the prestige of the place, carrying back one's mind to the days of old, when gaols and court-houses were the chief features of every country settlement, and when, to establish a township all that were requisite were a court-house, lock-up, and scourger: with sometimes a public-house thrown in to bring business to the other establishments. Those days have passed away, and with them, I would also wish to see these unsightly buildings, that are always telling us of what we, as a community, have been -- not done away with -- but kept out of sight instead of being needlessly protruded upon observation, as though their presence were necessary to keep us in restraint. There are some good buildings in the town, but none calling for particular remark, though, and it is worthy of observation, that the hotels here are without exception the finest houses in the town. There are branches here of the Union and New South Wales Banks, both doing a very fair amount of business, so far as I could learn. There is not much new building going on, though bricklayers and stonemasons command high wages. The ordinary daily pay of a skilled labourer (carpenter, &c.) is 15s.; bricklayers and stonemasons getting from 1s. to 2s. a day more than this. There are places of worship erected for Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Roman Catholics, and Wesleyans, all being very neat brick edifices, and each well at tended. There is also a Baptist meeting house, but I was given to understand that it was not now used as a place of worship. The schools under the Denominational Board are four in number, and are attached to the four leading Denominations. The private schools however are very numerous, and some of them are of a much higher order than ordinary. The number of public-house licenses issued last licensing day, were for the town l8, and for the district 20. Except during the sessions and assizes, the inns do not transact a very large amount of business. Looking at the police records, rather a favourable opinion may be formed of the inhabitants of this district. The average number of cases of all kinds, from drunkenness upwards, disposed of daily by the Police Bench is about two. The committals for trial from 1st January to the end of June were only 11, or not two per month; whilst there had been but one committal since April. The heavier cases arise mainly from the unfortunate predilections of the denizens of this part of the country -- drink and fat cattle murderous assaults whilst intoxicated, and cattle stealing being the more serious offences committed against the law. I was informed that the attendance of the unpaid magistracy was very punctual, except only in cases of flood or accident. The adoption of a roster on the Sydney principle has aided materially to effect this. The population of the police district is 1329, exclusive of the town, whilst during the last year 7804 acres of land were under cultivation. The produce is wheat, oats, barley, and potatoes, the proportion of each being in the order in which I have mentioned them. A large quantity of hay is also grown here. The climate is remarkably favourable for the growth of oats and other English products, gooseberries and currants grow very freely, and form rather a novel sight to the Sydney-born traveller who sees them in his native land for the first time. The yield of produce last harvest was estimated to have been fully 20 per cent, over that of the preceding year. I was confidently informed that nearly the whole of, if not all the gold forwarded by escort from Goulburn, might be said to come from Tuena, whence there is no escort ; if such be the case it becomes interesting to enquire into the amount sent down hence. In March, of the present year, none was sent down, owing to the bulk of gold having been forwarded the preceding month to save the export duty. In April, 705 ozs. were sent down; in May, 358 ozs.; and in June, up to the 15th, 170 ozs. Taking the number of diggers estimated by me in my last letter as being at Tuena, this would give a very first-rate yield per head. I am, however, inclined to think that this quantity is swelled by amounts sent down by parties at Tumut to their principals in Goulburn; and the increased quantity latterly forwarded from Goulburn bears me out, to some extent, in this view.