A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN GOLD FIELDS.
FROM OUR SPECIAL REPORTER.
No. 4.
Two years since the character of the rugged country precipitously descending from the plateau of
New England to the waters of the Clarence was little known by the few residents of the district beyond the
limits of the dreary track traversed by them, in their journies to and from the head of navigation, and up to
that period not even the unrivalled geological surveys of the Rev. W. B. Clarke, the truth and correctness of
which experience has confirmed to the most minute particular, could tempt the gold-miner to descend from
the table land in search of treasures the existence of which had been announced with all the confidence
inspired by science, groping in darkness, unable to distinguish one rock from another, and ignorant of those
natural conditions which are favourable to the accumulation of metals --- the digger believed, without
knowing why, that gold was only to be found in remunerative quantities on the western slopes of the main
range; and at the present day the wealth of the Clarence and the Araluen have failed to increase his faith in
the eastern waters, with the view of showing how groundless is this prejudice in favour of the western
slopes. We will now direct our course to the south-west from the Clarence Inn, and follow the windings of a
broad valley that lays at the base of the Gerard Range. The rock here, where it has been denuded,
appears to be an altered silicious flagstone, which has been but little disturbed and from which all traces of
its schistose character have disappeared. The track conducts you over richly grassed slopes and flats, and
across the points of steep rocky spurs of trappean formation, amidst which fragments of arenaceous and
felspathic schists are of frequent occurrence, but so much metamorphosed by the adjacent igneous
outbursts as to be recognised with difficulty. As you progress, you cross and recross the heads of
Plumbago Creek. The dry channels are choked with pebbles derived from the neighbouring rocks, mingled
with whitestone or ophite, the hills close in sending their steep but regular slopes down to the watercourse,
and presently you find yourself surrounded by a magnificent forest, in a sort of cul do sac, at the base of a
steep range which bars further progress. Toiling up the ascent, and passing over the same altered rocks
and masses of trap cropping through the long grass, you reach the summit, and a few steps further brings
you to the edge of an almost precipitous descent of about 1000 feet. You now, for the first time become
aware that you are on the margin of an elevated plateau, encompassed on three sides by the Gerard
Range and its eastern spurs, and on the fourth gradually declining to the north-eastward for a distance of
nineteen miles, until it sinks into the basin of the north arm of the Clarence. The entire area is drained by
Plumbago Creek and its many small tributaries falling from the ranges on either side: on the one hand, 500
feet below, is the valley which we have just traversed; on the other, in the depths of the chasm that
separates you from the opposite table-land, is the valley of the M'Leod, some 200 feet deeper in the
granitic formations; the eye in vain endeavours to track the stream as it pursues its tortuous course round
the base of the opposite ascents --- lofty ridges sprinkled with forest trees, an hundred and fifty feet in
height, seem like swelling plains clothed with shrubs, declining hills trend towards the Creek, and long belts
of a darker vegetation may be seen emerging from the gorges at the base of the range, and winding
through the valleys, sheltering tiny rivulets, which, leaping from the cool recesses of the impervious scrub,
fling themselves over piles of granite rocks, to hide in tall and tangled weeds, or loiter in noxious swamps.
Here and there, on some green slope, a spec of white or wreath of curling smoke marks the digger's home.
On the opposing range, towering far above the neighbouring heights, naked granite peaks, or
gigantic cairns rise through a forest, which, broken here and there by the white face of a precipice,
stretches upwards from the valley, becoming more dense and umbrageous as it ascends; and masses of
deep shade winding down the declivities, and round the base of the tall cliffs, indicate the numerous
watercourses from the table land, which wander amongst the lower hills, until they fall into the main stream.
About two miles to the westward, from the spot where we reached the cap of the granitic wall, Gerard's
Range, coming from the north-east, terminates in a lofty mountain, rising to the elevation of the highest
peak on the opposite table land. Its steep and rugged sides are deeply furrowed by watercourses, and
mantled with a gorgeous vegetation, differing in its character from that of the neighbouring elevations. Here
cedar and mahogany, and sassafras and eucalypti, festooned with monster vines, all jostle each other for
space in the fat soil, and mingle their leafy glories with the drooping fronds of the cabbage and
shade, and offer a secure asylum to the denizens of an Australian forest.
From the western side of this stupendous pile of rock and green-stuff, a range sweeping round to
the south-west terminates at M'Leod's Tableland, and closes in the valley above the falls; and from
the opposite side of the same mountain a similar range extends to the eastward, overhanging the valley
until it reaches the Timbarra, when, following the margin of that river for fifteen or sixteen miles, it subsides
in the plains at the junction of the Clarence, near the line which defines the boundaries of the
undisturbed carboniferous formations to the eastward, thus forming one wall of the chasm through which
the drainage from the table land finds its way to the lower country. This range, including its three branches,
is as nearly as possible represented by the Manx arms. The diggings on the Emu Creek (Pretty Gulley)
are at the extremity of its north-eastern arm, and gold has been found throughout the whole extent of its
three branches, although seldom as yet in payable quantities, except in the valley of the M'Leod.
The scrubs have never been prospected.
On the opposite bank of the Timbarra granite cliffs rise precipitously to a table land stretching to
the eastward, and overlooking the range on the western bank. This plateau attains its greatest
elevation, about five miles below the mouth of M’Leod's Creek, when it gradually decreases in altitude until
it passes into or under the undisturbed sandstone formation, which forms the eastern wall, at the base of
which the river flows for the last two miles before it unites with the Clarence. These cliffs, said to be
crowned with cabbage-trees, which are some indication of the rocks composing the soil, are inaccessible
from the river, and form a good land-mark from any of the surrounding summits within the compass of
many miles. Opposite to the mouth of M’Leod's Creek the table land to the eastward abruptly terminates in
an irregular broken depression or valley, stretching far away directly due south, and flanked by mountains
of a varied elevation and bold and rugged outline. The country in that direction is still unknown.
We have not yet moved from the spot on the summit of the range where we had the first view of M'Leod's
Creek, to which, in a course of sixteen miles, there are not more than three places where a descent is
practicable. Reclining upon a mass of grey wacke, on either side of us are fragments of what was once
sandstone, and we find ourselves surrounded by the evidences of a carboniferous formation which
once rose high above these summits, and of which but a wreck of the lowest series now remains.
Descending the southern face of the range, holding on as we are best able by shrubs and grasses, we
are soon below the altered grits and sandstones. These are succeeded by felspathic formations, irregular
and indistinct. And lower still occurs a porphyritic compound of fragments of quartz and coarse granitic
drift, which easily disintegrates, and covers the sides of the range, and fills up the hollows in the valley with
its sharp debris. Immense masses of a coarse whitish granite protrude from the mountain side through this
formation from which thin convex plates and slabs have weathered off and lay in piles below; beneath
these the prevailing rock of the valley and the lower Timbarra makes its appearance, being a variety of
amygdaloid consisting of pebbles, chiefly of hornblendic slate, embedded in a granitic basis. The entire of
the granite of M'Leod's valley seems to be a secondary formation resulting from drift, and containing an
unusual proportion of quartz in minute fragments derived from older rocks, the feltspar of which has
probably entered into other combinations. It is only as you ascend the heights of the table land on the
southern bank that you discover the true grey granites probably of a much more recent period.
Re-ascending the range to our old resting-place, we pursue our course along its summit towards
the Timbarra, overlooking the valley in our progress, now climbing over high conical crests, stumbling in the
long grass over logs and blocks of altered sandstones, and coarse schists, and trappean fragments, with
which the whole surface is strewn, and then painfully descending to long flat crowned gaps where masses
of pegmatite are scattered around, and beneath which the descents are the most precipitous. Huge
masses of granite may be seen bursting from the mountain side and overhanging others of still greater
magnitude. Onward still, creeping along dangerous sidlings and one of the loftiest crests, is succeeded by
the lowest gap in the range; it was here that the first track led into the valley, and its steep descent or
ascent was two good hours' work; through this gap, pack horses, carrying less than half a load, found they
way into the lower country, and supplied the diggers for many months. The range now declines in altitude,
and further on the descent becomes less irregular, but is still rendered impracticable by deep ravines and
rocks. A mile beyond you arrive at a small plateau crossed by a dray track, which, following a leading spur,
reaches the valley at the juncture of Long Creek with the M'Leod. From the plateau several minor
ranges branch off from north to south-east, and in one of these is the head of Oakey Creek, where gold of
a nuggetty description has been recently obtained from the debris of a quartz reef; half a mile further you
descend a series of spurs. As you advance the schistose and trappean fragments, so disagreeable to walk
over, are succeeded by a surface of decomposed granite and rounded ridges, with here and there a block
of harder granite, which has resisted the general disintegration, rising through the luxuriant herbage you
are wading knee deep through. The richest grasses and the tangled scrub of the mountains now gives
place to an open forest of apple and gum, which sweeps over the ridges and sprinkles the plains on the
margin of the river, which here, rising in a series of terraces, are about half-a-mile in width.
We have now endeavoured to carry the reader with us, over rock and range, to the banks of the Timbarra:
done our best to make him acquainted with the physical features of the district and its formation and have
reached a point opposite the lowest claims, where the channel, about 500 yards wide, is interrupted
by numerous bars and islands, formed of the binary granite, previously described, mostly in solid
blocks, the crevices of which nourish a dense growth of stunted river oak. The floods here rise rapidly and
to a great height, of which the wash and drift in the timber present the most convincing indications.
Throughout the whole course of the river gold can be procured from the crevices between the huge
flat topped masses of granite; but the water is so deep, and the detritus has been swept so clean away
where the best prospects have been obtained, that the main stream has not yet been held in much favour
by the diggers. As you approach its junction with the Clarence gold becomes more scarce, until it
entirely disappears in the carboniferous formations. It is, however, very probable that rich patches of
auriferous drift will at some future period be found below the mouths of the mountain tributaries. It
requires but a few instances of great success to raise this stream to its proper position as a gold-field.
Diggers are like a flock of sheep, get but one safely through the gap and there is no trouble with the
remainder.
Opposite the point where we descended from the ranges, the floods (obstructed by a projection of
rock lower down) have deposited a vast accumulation of pebbles and small boulders, forming a wide
shelving bank. To this spot several parties were directed who could not find a remunerative claim when the
diggings were first opened; and they invariably returned and said that they were unable to make rations.
Twelve months since a French party really set to work there, turned over the boulders, removed the
pebbles, and bagged 400 ounces in a few weeks, with a share of which some of the party have returned to
la belle France. Subsequent to this success three parties commenced operations on the same bar, and
now obtain a fair remuneration for their labour. I knew one lively little Frenchman who, in less than three
hours, obtained nearly half an ounce of fine gold from this spot with a tin dish, but believing that he had
only found a crevice, he abandoned it; after a trip to Port Curtis he returned with a greater respect for the
Timbarra, and has now no reason to complain that his labours have not been rewarded.
Recrossing and following the stream upwards, huge granite boulders from twenty to thirty feet in
height, and thousands of tons in weight, may be observed with eroded sides, piled like masonry, on the
opposite bank, thus marking the lowering of the channel. Three miles brings you to the mouth of M'Leod s i
Creek, on the north side; ascending this stream about a quarter of a mile you arrive at the spot where gold
was first obtained in payable quantities; the claim, although never rich, still remunerates a party who have
held it, working at intervals, for eighteen months. The channel of the creek, for a considerable distance
upwards, varies in width, from one to two hundred yards, but except in times of flood, the stream
seldom exceeds a breadth of eighteen feet --- it wanders from side to side, interrupted in its course
by granite rocks of every variety of size and form, and flows over a drift varying in depth from
eighteen inches to ten feet. In the deep drift there is usually from two to three feet of wash-dirt resting upon
a decomposed soft granite; the debris in the shallow ground reposes upon a hard granite worn into
narrow channels or gutters, and is payable from the surface. There were originally numerous low islands, jn
the size. All these have disappeared, and in their stead are deep excavations; the stream is
conducted through artificial channels high in the banks and the under-current is subdued by means of
California pumps driven by waterwheels. The washing is performed with box sluices fitted with either
ripples or false bottoms to retain the fine gold, and as there is not a particle of clay in the creek there is no
necessity for puddling. As the miner sinks to the bed rock he passes through alternate layers of fine and
coarse drift of an irregular thickness, and having a stratified appearance. These rest upon a stratum of
granite boulders and blue slate pebbles, the latter derived from the granitic amygdaloid, in which they are
imbedded; they are packed with a mixture of tenaceous blue mud and gravel; the former supplied by the
decomposition of feltspar set free by the disintegration of the granites. It is from this latter deposit that the
largest quantity of gold is procured, but sometimes the stratum of pebbles is absent, and in such a
condition where the drift is compact, and the feltspathic mud is equally distributed, the first, second, or third
stratum may be found to be gold bearing, and the remainder, even that resting upon the rock, barren;
thus proving that the auriferous drift is only carried into the creek during heavy rains or floods, when
the mountain rills become so many torrents, that the gold is brought down from the table land and the
slopes of the ranges, and that more has been brought down by some floods than others; each flood
deposits its own stratum; during the rush of waters only the heavier particles find their way to the bottom
under the shelter of points where the force of the current is either weakened or diverted to the opposite
bank. As it looses its impetuosity they become more generally distributed, when the stream attains its
height; where the current flows with, least rapidity, it lets fall the finer drift, and as it gradually subsides and
shrinks to its ordinary dimensions, it repairs its channel by filling cavities wrought by eddies in the soft rock,
with the finer sand, sifts, collects, and buries its golden treasures, opens new passages where old ones
have been hopelessly blocked up, and redistributes a portion of its heavier deposits, flinging some over
ledges of rock to be stowed away in some quiet nook round a point, and hiding others in heaps behind the
huge boulders that at all times obstruct its course, and defy its utmost efforts.
The richest portion of the lower M'Leod has invariably been below projecting points and elbows; the poorest
has been in straight reaches. Where the stream has flowed for any length of time after the subsidence of a
flood the detritus is compact; but where the channel expands, and is only covered with water when the
creek is up, the drift is loose and barren. There are, however, occasional exceptions governed by the
disposition of rooks and the junction of minor streams.
For the first three-quarters of a mile above the lowest claim the channels of the creek have been
worked and re-worked by successive parties, and portions of the ground are still payable. It is at present
rooted over by the Chinese. The next claim you arrive at is situated a few hundred yards below the first
falls. This spot of ground yielded an average of £20 a week to the load to a party of four Germans, who,
after a residence of eighteen months, have retired in favour of a mob of Celestials. The next claim was
equally rich, but less extensive. Above the ledge of granite over which the stream falls, a party of
Europeans are re-working thrice wrought ground at an increased depth, by the aid of a water-wheel
and pump. Then come the Celestials again, who recently paid £15 for an exhausted piece of ground which
was never very rich. They begin already to suspect that they have been victims to the salting process so
well understood here. For a mile higher up, the channel is wide, the drift loose and deep, and the stream
has frequently changed its channel. The little watercourses winding through the flats on either bank,
like ploughed furrows in the alluvium, are all auriferous, and, in sinking shafts at the termination of the
gentle slopes, to depths of from eighteen to thirty feet through the granite drift, fine gold was discovered to
be equally distributed from the surface to the bottom, but nowhere in sufficient quantities to be
remunerative.
About half a mile higher up you arrive at the junction of Long Creek. This stream has its source in the
northern wall enclosing the valley, and flows at its base for some distance, shadowed by a dense scrub, I in
a chasm-like channel, when it enters a narrow valley, and thenceforth pursues a meandering
course through deep alluvium, for seven or eight miles, until it unites with the main stream. It is separated
at it source, by a narrow precipitous ridge, from a stream which, flowing in an opposite direction, sweeps
round the base of the Gerard Mountain, keeping within the confines of the cedar brush until it enters
the Macleod, twelve miles above the junction of Long Creek; in the lower part of that stream the only
coarse nuggetty gold has been found that the district has produced. Both these streams separate the
forehills, with their system of water-courses and swamp drainage, from the granitic wall.
The detritus at the head of Long Creek contains large blocks of quartz. As the stream enters the valley this
detritus becomes of great depth, and the alluvium forming the narrow flats is saturated with water from hill
to hill. Shafts have been sunk to a depth of thirty feet, but failed to reach the rock. As elsewhere, gold has
been found to be universally distributed from the surface downwards, but nowhere in sufficient quantities to
render any extensive mining operations profitable. The strong under-current, and the extreme depth to
which this valley has been silted up, will cause it to be neglected so long as claims can be worked
elsewhere with less labour.
Opposite the junction the miner has exposed by his operations an outburst of true gray granite, investing a
tilted stratum of the fine dark blue slate, of which the pebbles imbedded in the binary granites
are formed; both rocks are porphyritic, and in a high state of preservation. Somewhat higher up a similar
stratum, silicified and compact, but of a fawn colour, crosses the creek, and may be observed ascending
heights of which it forms the crest, presenting an appearance of the ruins of a city wall. There have been
considerable operations carried on in this part of the creek, but the yield was below the average. As you
proceed the remain of diggers' huts become frequent on the beautiful slopes, which terminate at the steep
banks. None of them have seen two winters, and yet they exhibited all the marks of time and long
desertion. The smoke now rises from but one solitary hut, crowning a knoll that a few months since boasted
of a store, a grog shop, and a blacksmith's forge. Here, Flora has hastened to conceal the footsteps of the
digger, sprinkling the unsightly wreck with a profusion of strange herbs and flowers. Wherever the surface
has been broken the vegetation is most prolific, so much so as to render an approach to the site of an
abandoned camp dangerous. The valley of the Macleod has acquired something of a reputation for deaf, or
death, adders and black and brown snakes, which not so long since divided the lordship of the valley with
native dogs and wild bulls.
Passing Oakey Creek, a promising but unexplored stream, on the south bank, gentle slopes give place
to steep bluffs and ridges, which overhang the creek; and, as you look down from the dangerous
sidling path, you can distinguish nothing but a confused blending of river oaks, and stupendous granite
rocks. Every ridge has its attendant gully, deep and cavernous, from which, in rainy seasons, torrents leap
into the depths below. Notwithstanding the rugged and broken character of this part of the stream,
interrupted as it is by frequent falls, it has been worked successfully wherever a bucketfull of drift could be
found. Three miles of these rocks and sidlings are passed, when you descend to where the creek,
doubling round a point, pursues a smooth for half a mile. At the upper extremity a tributary swamp comes in
on the north side, and a creek from the table land on the south side, --- both rich feeders to the main
stream. It was here that the discoverers of the gold-field, after many weary months of prospecting, selected
their claim, which was subsequently jumped by a mob of adventurous "Tipps" from the Uralla, who took
something like £4000 out of it; the only satisfaction that the discoverers received was the compliment paid
to their judgment by the robbers. Here we will pause, and, in the contemplation of the abandoned huts and
the surrounding devastation, recall the memory of its first appearance, when the green sward of the hills
rose from a dangerous mass of noxious weeds and tangled scrub, and the rippling murmurs of the stream
alone announced its vicinity.