A VISIT TO THE WESTERN GOLDFIELDS.
BY OUR SPECIAL REPORTER
No. 15.
THE Meroo, although similar to the Turon in its geological features, differs in the
character of its scenery, ranges recede now on the north bank, and then on the south,
forming extensive half-moon flats on either side; long sloping spurs from the heights
drive the stream under the steep face of the opposite range, from which it is repelled and
driven to the contrary side -- thus forming the succession of points which divide the
triangular or semi-circular flats through which the river takes its way. Thus for miles up
and down the middle Meroo district, there is a constant occurrence of low flats, and
elevated points, backed by steep continuous ranges -- now bold and rugged, where
immense masses of schist or trap rocks, blackened by the elemental wars of centuries,
over-hang the valley, and then their steep sides, clothed with forest verdure to the crest,
here dark and sombre where the gloomy oak droops over the birth-place of some short-lived
mountain torrents, and rests in perpetual shade, and then bright and lovely where
the beautiful mimosa, the box, and gum impart, by their diversity of foliage, a varied
beauty to the verdant slopes.
This stream is more tortuous in its course than the Turon, and the flats through which it
wends its way are more extensive, while the ranges descend, for the most part,
precipitously to the valley from the heights of the plateau, instead of falling with a
succession of declining hills, as is the case in the basin of that river. The Meroo,
consequently, possesses few tributaries below its junction with Long Creek, and those
few, being short and precipitous in their course, have, with two or three exceptions, never
been found worth attention, although all contain more or less gold. Of the many wide
flats bordering the Meroo, on either bank, all present a decided evidence that the stream
has frequently altered its course, and that, like all streams over a schistose formation, it
has been continually lowering its channel, gradually removing every obstruction, until it
has attained its present level. The ancient channels may be traced here round the base of
the mountains on one side, then on the other, and again through the centre of a flat, or
across a low point, and all are silted up by the waste of the high lands, and many are
shaded by an ancient forest that counts its years by ages. The ranges on each side are
auriferous to their highest crests, and traversed by quartz reefs that sink into the flats,
and crossing the river ascend the opposing heights. Their presence on the flat is usually
indicated by low ridges, or rounded swells, as the superior hardness of the quartz has
protected the more perishable schists from that disintegration which is continually going
forward. It is at the base of these low mounds that frequent obliterated gullies, or
watercourses, are, found by the experienced digger, often extremely rich, for a short
distance, when the lead becomes lost, and is seldom recovered. At the base of the
mountains and down their precipitous sides, numerous small runs may be detected, which
have at one period conducted the waters across the flats to the main stream -- as that
stream altered its course, these watercourses become speedily silted up by the enormous
mass of detritus brought down from the mountains, and every trace of their existence
become lost, and new channels were formed to be, in their turn, obliterated under the
same conditions. These watercourses were of varied lengths, and offered obstructions to
the passage of the gold at different points in their channel, causing deposits of the
precious metal to which the present altered appearance of the surface affords no clue.
It will be gathered from the foregoing that the middle Meroo flows through wide flats,
alternating with more elevated points, that the richest portion of the river will be found
ever under the lower side of these points, and that the gold in its passage to the main
stream from the mountains was compelled to cross these flats, having little declination,
that these watercourses have in many instances become obliterated, and new ones have
taken their place, consequently a large quantity of gold now remains buried in the flats in
small narrow patches, and will be discovered in apparently the most improbable places.
From, the base of the mountains to the margin of the stream, the extent of the flats render
it certain that they contain more gold than the bed of the river, which may often prove
barren; while certain parts of the flats on either side are enormously productive. Hundreds
of holes may be sunk on these extensive plains without yielding more than the colour,
while others will repay the labour of sinking many a blank, and a small patch or lead of
great richness will be worked out, and unaccountably lost. These leads will be discovered
with difficulty, and mining operations in this district will occasionally languish, and then
recover all their pristine energies, as the diggers become incited to renewed exertions by
fresh discoveries. Many old channels, over points and through flats, have been opened
and worked within the last two years.
The broad disk of the sun, red and fiery, is just peeping over the distant ranges; already
the camp is astir, and the diggers are busy preparing the matutinal meal ere they
commence the labours of the day. We are directing our; course up stream, towards
Avisford; half a mile brings us to the head of the flat; and the head of the flat brings us
to Sailor's Creek. Here we ascend a high ridge which closes in the diggings at Maitland Bar.
It falls from the southern plateau, and terminates in rocky precipices which overhang the
stream; opposite these rocks is Hongkong Point, a large bar, much frequented and worked
by Chinese. You now descend the ridge and cross a richly grassed flat, where a large
party of Celestials are encamped on the margin of the stream, and are engaged in working
bed claims. The plains as you advance become more extended, barren spots alternating
with rich alluvial patches and low undulating ridges and mounds previously described,
here in favourable spots. Many deep shafts have been sunk, the majority of which have
been blanks, and here many ancient channels of the river may be traced at various
elevations far from its present course; the banks of the stream have been continuously
worked and occasionally the bed, and favourable bars. Every now and again, a Chinese
party may be observed on the banks of the river -- as you cross the flats on either hand,
the shafts become more frequent; now and again, a lucky strike has been made, and the
position of a rich patch is marked by a crowd of holes and tunnels, which have been
worked out and abandoned. Somewhat further the river makes a sharp detour, where it
receives the waters of Soldier Jackey's Creek in a beautiful plain.
Here a few European miners were at work, grumbling as is their wont, and ten times their
number of Chinese. This spot, named Moonlight Flat, has once been densely populated,
and the diggers have left numerous shafts and holes as memorials of their industry,
particularly at the commencement of an old run which has never been followed through
the flat. These plains on either bank present many situations inviting to the miner, and
they are admirably adapted for small farms; however, there is said to be some old
preemptive right hanging over the locality, if so, it is doomed to remain as it is a lonely
wilderness; on still, and the hills recede further to the right, and left, and descend to the
wide valley with gentle declivities, grassed, and wooded; following the stream the banks
all more or less worked, you approach a wide beaten road which leads you to the crossing
place, Here a wandering digger en route for the new rush, informs you that you are at
Avisford. You ask to be directed to the post office, and he points to a hut across the flat,
near which there stands a butcher's gallows, -- town there is none, and you begin to feel
sundry misgivings about dinner, for these long rambles dispense with the necessity for
bitters, they are powerful appetizers.
Avisford (although it has never been surveyed) occupies a prominent position in some of
our maps; it is, however, a lovely situation; and a sprinkling of diggers' huts, with their
cultivation grounds, may be seen scattered over the plain. Crossing the river, a mile over
a grassy flat brings you to the edge of a creek where there are two good stores; and a
quarter of a mile further, to a roadside public-house of the old school. About three miles
to the left is a sugarloaf mountain, at the base and on the sides of which several small
nuggets have been picked up after rain, but there have been no regular workings in the
vicinity; gold has been also found in the creeks near it, and it is thought that a rich
gold-field will be one day discovered in that district. Many creeks and watercourses are
to be found in the mountains round Avisford -- flats that have never been examined, and of
which the existence is scarcely known. There is no part of the Meroo in which heavier
deposits of gold will in all probability be found than in the neighbourhood of Avisford;
the indications are favourable, but the great extent of the flats, and the depth of a portion
of the ground, renders the search after gold a precarious pursuit. Many fortunes have been
made here, and there is no part of the gold-fields where so much labour has been
unrequited. Still, it is a rich gold-field, and will continue to be so for years.
The stream now trends to the south-east; and following it still upwards as you proceed,
the plains gradually rise, and the mountains become less elevated. Many tents are
scattered up and down on the banks of the river, and a few men are employed below the
points. The banks are all exhausted, and few do more than pay their expenses, which all
can do by regular labour. The plains now become more contracted, when you reach Long
Flat on the north bank, in the centre of which is an old channel; this was very productive,
but the yield was irregular. It is said that seventy pounds weight of gold (70 lbs.) was
taken out of one claim by a party consisting of four Germans, two years since, and others
have been equally fortunate. A few Europeans still linger amongst the old workings, and
the Chinese, although numerous, are constantly shifting from place to place, as if
dissatisfied with the result of their labours. On the south bank the descents from the
plateau to the flat are steep, but regular. Several depressions, marking the site of ancient
watercourses, have been opened and found to contain rich deposits. Stoney Creek here
meanders across the flat from a gorge in the ranges, and has been partially worked. It has
been found patchy, but rich. The Chinese have a puddling machine here, and further up
stream a spur descends in an oblique direction to the plain. In this spur a quartz reef has
been discovered, from which some very rich specimens have been obtained. On the
western side, half way between the mountains and the stream, the faint traces of an
ancient watercourse may be distinguished. A digger put down a hole here, and bottomed
upon a hard quartz conglomerate, when, not finding a payable prospect, he cursed his ill
fortune, and shifted his tools. A Chinaman, who had been watching his proceedings,
jumped into the hole, broke through the conglomerate, and was rewarded by the
discovery of an immensely rich narrow lead. The whole run immediately swarmed with
his countrymen. A line of shafts were sunk in close contact with each other, to within
fifty yards of the river, where the lead was lost. One long tunnel extended the length of
the run, and their success was unprecedented. Some resolved to tempt Fortune no further,
and prepared to carry their wealth to the central flowery land, but on their arrival in
Sydney many of them forgot to satisfy the hungry cravings of the Custom-house, and the
bulk of their gold was seized. Since that period the gully has been accursed in their sight,
and no further effort has been made to trace the run to the mountains. This watercourse
does not extend more than 300 yards, and the gold was evidently supplied by the
neighbouring reef.
Edwards' Point, on the north bank, nearly facing the Chinese Gully, opened in March,
1858, was rapidly wrought out, but still affords employment for a few hands; and, above
that, Rotten Point, on the same side, is supplied by a wide ravine, and has also been much
rooted up. Further still, you arrive at Poverty Point, the termination of a long descent
from the high lands to the southward, and here the heights close upon the river, and shut
in the plains. On either side of Poverty Point a bar which formerly contained a large
quantity of the precious metal in their shingly drift, and in the cleavage of the schistose
rocks forming the bed of the stream, have been turned over, reworked many times, and
are now all but abandoned. A family, consisting of sixteen souls, including three
generations, is still located on the lower side. They complain bitterly of the increasing
scarcity of gold. The contemplation of so large a family, two thirds of which are women
and children, wholly dependant upon a pursuit so precarious as gold-digging, for their
daily bread, must give rise to feelings anything but pleasurable, the uncertainty as to the
future, and the feverish anxiety which, increasing with his responsibilities, are the
inseparable conditions attached to the life of a gold-digger, must engender every feeling
and passion repugnant to human happiness; and a wise Government, careful of the moral
advancement of the community, would strain every nerve to deprive the occupation of the
gold-miner of this tendency to a result so fatal to our future prosperity.