Sydney Morning Herald 5 April 1859

A VISIT TO THE WESTERN GOLDFIELDS.

BY OUR SPECIAL REPORTER

No. 21.

AGAIN we leave Richardson's Point, and, taking once more to the mountains, the valleys, and the streams, pursue our way along the plain that stretches to the southward. On the right, a continuous range skirts the flats, and ultimately connects itself with the Bogie Mountain on the verge of the plateau; on the left, Long Creek, after receiving several important tributaries, mingles its waters with those of the Meroo; and further still, two ranges descending from the main chain of the Cordilleras, after a westerly course of twenty-five miles, with a gentle declination, sink into the flats. These ranges, from the points where the quartziferous schists emerge from under the carboniferous formations, and assume a lower level, are all more or less auriferous; and as they decrease in altitude they increase in the production, of alluvial gold. They are separated by deep parallel valleys -- one forming the basin of Campbell's Creek, another that of Long Creek; while a third stream, rising at the base of the Bogie Mountain, and falling from the tableland, after a northerly course of eight or nine mile, empties itself into Long Creek. This latter creek is most inelegantly named the Devil's Hole. As there is nothing remarkable in the scenery, -- a stranger would be at a loss to know how it had acquired such an appellation; the only solution to the enigma I could arrive at was the large number of decayed public-houses that cluster round what was the main camp, and which are now the only memorials of a once numerous population. These streams, descending from the lofty ranges that separate the eastern from the western waters, receive the drainage of a large extent of country, and, gathering force as they roll onward, have denuded first, and then destroyed one series of rocks after another until they have reached the gold-bearing formations, which in their turn are subjected to a ceaseless disintegration and re-distribution thus forming extensive valleys, whose alluvial plains conceal treasures concentrated by a thousand floods. Having now formed some idea of the relative position of the main tributaries of the Meroo, we will return to the junction of Long Creek with that stream. This point has been, in times past, exceedingly productive, and, with the banks and plains on either side, has given employment to hundreds of diggers, most of whom have now abandoned the district. At present, a few men who know the ground are encaped at intervals along the stream, and re-work the old claims with indifferent success: a considerable number of Chinese also find their account in rewashing the detritus in the bed of the creek, which appears to be inexhaustible, every flood bringing down a fresh supply of the precious metal. Nearer the base of the hills on each side many ravines are yet to be prospected; two or three small leads have recently been discovered, and followed across the flat on the west side for a short distance, but no effort has been made to trace them to the mountains, or the reefs from which they originate; the diggers say that

"it looks too much like prospecting."

Many patches of surfacing are also to be found scattered over the flats and on the distant slopes, but those unworked are said to be too far from water, and not rich enough for carting at the present rate of labour. Pursuing the margin of the stream for a mile, and passing many small points, you arrive at the junction of Campbell's Creek; this spot was amongst the richest in the Meroo district, and two or three fine quartz reefs are in its immediate vicinity. Although it has been worked without intermission for seven years, it is still a favourite spot, and a single square yard of un-wrought ground is sought for with avidity. Chinese and Europeans work here indiscriminately, and many make good wages, averaging£5 to£6 a-week each. One man, who had realised £200 by a few months' labour at this spot, was drawn into the vortex during the Rockhampton furor, was absent some two months, had the good sense to find his way back, al- though penniless, and has, since his return, cleared £150, over and above his expenditure, not through any particular piece of good fortune, but by unremitting hard labour; nevertheless, a stranger here would work to a disadvantage, an intimate knowledge of the ground being the secret of success. Leaving Long Creek we turn to the eastward, and commence the ascent of Campbell's Creek. The plains now become wider, the stream has repeatedly altered its course, and many of the old channels are but partially effaced. On the left bank, large quartz reefs descend from the central range on the crown of low spurs, and, crossing the stream, pass through the opposite flats to the S.S.E. The lower portion of these spurs has yielded some rich surfacing, and shafts sunk between the base of the rising ground and the streams have all repaid the labour of the miner. On the right bank a large flat, extending from the junction about half-a-mile up stream, has been immensely productive, and still yields an ample subsistence to many families, whose neat homesteads may be seen scattered over the distant slopes. Two or three puddling machines are in operation here, and others are in progress, as all the ground will pay well for re-working, and now passing onward you find that the flat contracts on the south bank, and may observe a large quartz reef, which, crossing the stream, is concealed by the alluvium in its passage under the flat, and reappears on the rising ground. This spot, known as the Doctor's Mistake, has been long believed to contain large quantities of gold, but the depth of the alluvium and water have hitherto presented obstacles which the diggers have been unable to remove. Many attempts have been made to reach the bed rock without success, as the water invariably rose to within a few feet of the surface with great rapidity. An energetic party has recently commenced extensive operations, with the object of draining this flat, with a reasonable prospect of success, but no sooner had they set to work than claims were pegged out all round them by parties ready to take advantage of their labour and enterprize, but unwilling to contribute towards the undertaking. To this dishonest mode of proceeding may be attributed much of the indisposition that exists to undertake works of this character, without which many of the richest portions of our gold-fields must remain for ever worthless. Where a party, by means of drainage or any other operation, succeeds in rendering a piece of ground workable that would be unworkable in a natural state, all those desirous of taking advantage of their labour should be compelled to pay a proportionate share of the expenditure before they put a pick in the ground. There are not a few old crawlers on the gold-fields who are constantly on the look-out for an opportunity of making a few pounds in this way. They no sooner hear or suspect that a party is about to apply for a plot of ground for a puddling machine, or intend to commence some other important work, than they hurry off with their pick and shovel, and are to be seen busily engaged on the very spot where they will interfere most with the works in contemplation, when they must be either bought off, or the design must be abandoned. I recollect that when on the Turon I heard one man boost that he had made £5 out of a party of Chinese, and £3 out of some other victims, all in one week, by such a discreditable manouvre. With reference to the party in question, it is possible the claim that they have selected may turn out the least valuable on the flat, and, as they cannot drain one portion without draining the whole, those who have done least may obtain most. On the opposite bank, a similar flat, offering the same inducements to mining enterprize, is in a primitive state; the creek now sweeps to the southward, when making a large detour it resumes its north easterly course, enclosing a peninsula, which is under partial cultivation. Following the windings of the stream for two miles, you find that the miner has done but little, until you reach a wide plain, through which it pursues its sluggish course, at the base of the northern hills; here, a few parties are at work on the various points, and some half a dozen huts are sprinkled over the flat, each with its patch of culture, a little further and you reach a large Chinese camp, where all is life and bustle, and the celestials may be observed at their various labours, some sluicing in the bed of the creek, others cradling, more excavating, while a long string of carriers, each with his yoke and two buckets, in Indian file, keeps up a line of communication between the cradlers and the excavators. And now, leaving the Chinese labourer to his toil, we press forward -- the mountains begin to close in upon us on either hand, we are getting to the southward of the Dogtrap Range, and crossing the track of those auriferous quartz reefs which have already enriched the upper Meroo, are approaching what was the richest portion of Campbell's Creek. Spurs from conical topped lulls, on each bank, descend with long gentle declinations to the stream, forming points, all of which have been extremely productive, but most of which are exhausted, and now deserted. Shafts, holes, and cuttings now become frequent, interspersed with patches of surfacing on the slopes, and as you advance you find one celebrated spot succeed another in rapid succession. Miller's Point with the creek, both above and below it, has yielded a large quantity of gold, but is now deserted, except by the Chinese. A little further and you arrive at Blue Point on the north bank, at the base of a ridge descending from the Dogtrap Range. Here some very rich, claims were formerly worked; it is also exhausted Further still is Smith's Flat, and beyond that Brennan's Flat, both much cut up and nearly abandoned, and then comes Doyle's Bar, also used up; and Here a small village survives the fallen fortunes of the gold- field, and two public-houses, three or four stores, with, a blacksmith and a butcher, still hold their ground. The mountains now recede, and a fine undulating plain on the south bank extends a few miles to the eastward; successive conical topped hills and ridges gradually rising on either side until they attain the summit of the ranges, those to the northward separating the waters of the Meroo, and to the southward falling again into the basin of Long Creek. Vale and mountain are clothed with the brightest green, and groups of forest trees scattered over the whole, at intervals, lend a charm to the prospect, and produce an effect not unlike the park scenery of old England. Notwithstanding the general appearance of exhaustion and abandonment that pervades all the diggings on this creek, once so populous, twenty families have settled themselves in the vicinity of Doyle's Bar, and about fifty diggers contrive to make a subsistence by fossicking about amongst the old claims. There are also three or four puddling machines in active operations with average success, and ample space for many more, as most of the old ground would pay for re-washing. The higher slopes and ranges here on either bank present many indications of payable gold, and are worth the attention of the digger.