Sydney Morning Herald 28 April 1859

A VISIT TO THE WESTERN GOLDFIELDS.

BY OUR SPECIAL REPORTER

No. 27.

THE sun shines bright and glorious and, as the fleecy vapours sail across the clear blue sky their shadows flit over hill and valley, and the fitful breeze in playful mood rushes wildly through the forest tossing the withered leaves and branches to and fro and ever and anon it sinks into a plaintive melancholy moan, as if lamenting the departing summer. On such a day we loathe the house, let us to the bush the cheerful, exhilarating, boundless bush. How we pity that poor wight whose life, like the poor beast in yonder pug mill, is one dull, unchanging round. We parted at Jackson's Flat, and now we follow Long Creek still further to the westward, although from this point it has been rooted and turned over times in- numerable, and may be said to be exhausted. The busy crowds that once thronged its banks have nearly all departed, and the wreck of mouldering huts and fallen timber on the gross grown flats, and holes, and barren patches denuded of their surface, are all that they have left behind. A long continuance of drought has nearly dried up the stream, and what little water remains, fearful lest the sun should lick it up, steals along its course in a subterranean current. Crossing its dry channel, we make our way over piles of rocks and enter a green valley that sweeps round to the west, and in which no gold worth working has been discovered Half a mile brings us to its bend, when ascending a hill that connects the ranges on either side we find ourselves at the head of Nugetty Gulley famed as having been the richest diggings on the Meroo district. To the left you have a continuous range separating long Creek, which winds along its southern base, about 500 feet below the level of the head of the gulley, which pursues a parallel course for three miles, and finally empties into the main watercourse, when it makes a sweep to the northward at a point where the dividing range subsides into the flat, and to the right steep unbroken slopes descend to the margin of the stream from the high ranges separating the basin of Campbell's Creek, and forming a portion of the auriferous chain of mountains terminated by the Dog-trap Ranges. The first 300 or 400 yards from the head was unproductive, it then expands to the width of about 200 yards, and from that point it was enormously rich, many of the claims having yielded from thirty to forty ounces a day to a party of three or four, the heaviest gold inclining to the left side. The sinking increased in depth as you ascended the watercourse, and is through a bright argillaceous clay, resting upon a red gravel, and beneath this a coarse red sandstone, or fine grained indurated schist. To the left, the lead gave out in the sandstone, which here rose to the surface. Lower still, the bottom was a pipeclay, intermixed with calcareous matter, and small pebbles, the debris of ancient limestone conglomerates. One enterprising party of poor men endeavoured to reach the solid rock by penetrating the pipeclay, but after sinking 110 feet, relinquished the design, as they appeared as far off as ever. Somewhat lower down you find that immense quartz reefs descending from the ranges to the right, cross the gulley in an oblique direction. The gold has been followed up the hill on the same side, a short distance, wherever the slightest indentation offered a spot favourable for its collection. As you descend, the gulley becomes somewhat narrower, and two important watercourses fall into it from the left, here, also, two large quartz veins crossing the stream ascend a declining spur between the watercourses, both of which they have enriched, and which have been apparently worked out. The main gulley was also exceedingly productive, immediately below those reefs, which, coming from the Dog-trap range, pass onward through the dividing lulls, and intersect Jackson's Flat, where gold of a similar description is produced as previously stated. The diameter of the digging now undergoes a change -- a light green fine schist, silicified, hard, and much fissured, rises to within two feet of the surface, and the gulley is crossed by numerous parallel quartz reefs It was rich throughout its entire length, has been frequently re-worked, and the rock has been extensively broken up for the gold in the cleavage. Two or three men still hover about the old holes in the expectation of being able to recover the lead lost about two years since, and they contrive in their researches to find gold enough to clear their expenses. The hills on cither side are auriferous, but water is scarce, and can only be found in the abandoned workings, as, from the steepness of the gulley, it runs but a few hours after rain. After every shower men prowl about the heaps of rubbish and headings, looking for washed-out gold, and some have thus obtained two or three ounces in a few hours, which is often liquified in as short a period. If water could be procured the whole of the detritus would pay well for puddling, as the precious metal is very irregularly interspersed through the deep ground, and it has been generally imperfectly washed. Moreover, the hills on each side are worth prospecting in the line of the quartz reefs, as it is probable that surfacing would be discovered rich enough to pay for carriage to the main stream. Although it is a matter of uncertainty whether the deepest portion of this gully has been bottomed, it has produced an incredible quantity of gold, all of which must have been supplied from a very small portion of the reefs that cross it, and there is little doubt but some of them would pay for crushing. Retracing our path to Long Creek, and following it downwards, we pass Barney's Flat and Point, both worked out. A mile further brings you to Doolan's public-house, a quarter of a mile below which an old channel of the creek has been recently opened, from which five to eight dwts. to the tub has been obtained. There was a slight rush to the spot, but the majority of the men were shepherding their claims, as they had some suspicion that the lucky prospectors had bottomed upon a mere patch which would soon run out you now enter upon an open flat, and find a few huts sheltering families who continue to subsist by rooting amongst the old works at the mouth of Nuggetty, where there are two or three puddling machines. As you proceed, the stream follows the base of steep ridges on the north bank, while the road on the southern side conducts you over a series of low ridges. Descending from the hills, in the direction of the Devil s Hole Creek, you every now and again pass over large quartz reefs, the debris of which is scattered over the surface. You may now observe the wreck of extensive works, and large patches of exhausted surfacing, particularly at Edwards Point, where two large puddling mills have been erected, which are idle from the sarcity of water. The bed of the creek has also been repeatedly worked over, and has always remunerated the digger. A few families are still to be found located on the flats, at long intervals, and a small party of Chinese may be seen occasionally taking advantage of the drought, and smashing away at the bed rock in the dry channel. As you progress even these finally disappear, and for a long space the solitude is undisturbed. In all this distance the slopes and ridges falling from the broken ranges that separate the Devil's Hole Creek to the southward present the strongest auriferous indications, and numerous dry watercourses winding between the ridges are payable to a limited extent but as yet unworked. Gold is said to have been found here by Mr. Suttor's shepherds long before Mr. Hargraves made his discoveries public. They confined their researches to the tops of the ridges, and some of them were in possession of a considerable quantity of coarse nuggetty gold without being aware of its value. One of these families still remain in the district, and have risen and fallen with the gold field. They had not learned the old proverb,

"to make hay," &c.

And now you arrive at a ledge of rocks which cross the bed of the stream, causing a fall of eight or nine feet, this rock is a fine grained indurated schist, in vertical strata, and a few yards above the fall a slight outburst of a molten vesicular rock occurs, which has flowed over granite rocks on either side for about three feet, when it terminates with a round edge, forming a plate about six inches in thickness. I employed a Chinaman to detach a small portion as a specimen, and such was its hardness that he spoiled two picks in the operation. The under surface of the fragment had taken the impression of the rock over which it flowed as perfectly as if it was wax or lead, and did not adhere to it. On the north bank an eruption of the same rock may be traced for a considerable distance on the crest of a ridge, where it is denuded by disintegration, and finally disappears under a mass of contorted schists, through which it had not sufficent force to penetrate. This is a remarkable evidence of the igneous action by which the ranges have been upheaved, and by which the fissures in the sedimentary strata have been filled with quartz or other igneous rocks in a state of fusion. It is probable that, instead of quartz being the mother of gold, primitive granite may claim the maternity, and that its elements, in some combination, would be found in that rock, if we could reach it in a natural state. Iron is found in granite in the adjacent secondary formation, with all the fluxes or agents necessary to its fusion by the aid of heat, and it is possible that may be generated by the presence of water, which would supply the oxygen essential to combustion, and which has, by re-combinations, set the gold at liberty, this, by its specific gravity, would segregate and by the projectile force created by the expansion of the molten rocks, be ejected into the fissures with the fused quartz, which remains in excess of other combinations, and which, being of a less gravity than either of the other components of the granitic rock, would float on the surface, and therefore be the first ejected. The fissures in the sedimentary rocks would be caused at the same period, by the expansion of the lower strata, by the intense heat, and the consequent disruption of the whole mass. The polarity of these fissures have yet to be accounted for. Their direction in the western districts is universally north and south. It may originate from magnetic influence, as iron forms so important an element in the great subterranean laboratory of nature. The casings of all auriferous reefs contain a large proportion of that metal either in the form of a sulphuret or an oxide, which may sometimes be traced in innumerable minute veins throughout the quartz, differing according to the conditions under which the cooling or crystalisation took place. Where iron, is absent no gold is to be found. It has further been proved that water is essential to volcanic action, and that where this has been cut off the volcano became extinct. I may here remark that on granitic gold-fields the formation of the granular particles of that metal, usually differ from those found in a schistose district, or a country originally covered with vast sheets of sedimentary rock, through which the igneous products have forced their passage with difficulty by the power of an ascending force generated by expansion. On granitic formations gold is generally found in minute grains or particles, globular, and seldom larger than the head of a pin, and sometimes not a fourth of that size: these being flattened by fluviatile action become scales. It is more generally diffused, and is always found in connection with black oxide of iron, and titaniferous pyrites. The gold on the granite ranges of the Timbarra and at the source of M'Leod's Creek is of this character. On schistose formations gold is discovered in comparatively large masses, sometimes of many pounds weight, and always presenting evidence of its having been in a molten state, and of its having cooled down with the quartz. Crystals of gold have been rarely found, and might possibly be generated by the chemical action of gases and vapours evolved by volcanic agency -- but it is well known by gold miners that veins or agglomerations of quartz perfect in its crystallization, and abounding in transparent crystals, are as a general rule barren, while their hopes never rise so high as when they fall in with a reef opaque, streaked, and of a dull yellowish or bluish white, and charged with sulphuret and oxide of iron. This condition of the quartz rock is an evidence that the cooling has been rapid, as would be the case with the product of a submarine eruption, and also that the mass has been disturbed during the process of crystallization, either by the injection of fresh matter, or the passage of gases through it, evolved by the decompositions and recombinations in progress below, chiefly through the agency of oxygen, which appears to be essential to the production of gold in the form in which it comes within our reach, always in connection with the oxides of silicium (quartz) and the oxide and sulphuret of iron, and in combination with silver or copper in proportions varying as often as the place of eruption. Thus, the gold found in the Devil's-hole Creek is the purest in the district, that from Long Creek ranks next in value, and that from come portions of Campbell's Creek, separated by a single ridge or range, is much inferior to the other two, while so large is the proportion of silver in alloy with the Louisa gold that its value is considerably below that obtained on the Meroo, from the same reefs, but at a greater depth in the schistose formation. This fact has given rise to a class of traders who purchase on one gold-field to sell on another, and by mixing the product of different fields manage to elude the vigilance of the most skilful buyer, whose prices range from 65s. to 75s. or 77s. 6d. there is a wide margin for such operations.