Sydney Morning Herald 29 April 1859

A VISIT TO THE WESTERN GOLDFIELDS.

BY OUR SPECIAL REPORTER

No. 28.

AFTER the digression in my last, into the various formations or granitic gold-fields, originating in the finding of a fragment of igneous rock, we shall proceed leisurely down the Devil's Hole Creek. Below the falls, the plains expand on either bank, the northern range sinks to the elevation of a ridge, the soil becomes intermixed with trappean decompositions, and is consequently more fertile, the marginal flats become deeper, but are not saturated with water, and the present channel of the creek looses its auriferous character for a distance of three miles, when it forms a junction with the Devil's Hole Creek. That there are a number of obliterated channels in the plains on each bank is unquestionable, and, as the ranges are still auriferous, that some of these channels contain gold in payable quantities is also certain; two or three leads have been worked from the northern hills, some distance across the plains and there lost, in other places patches of surfacing have been discovered and exhausted, and recently the channel of a considerable stream, descending from the hills, but now silted up and covered with heavy forest timber, has been opened at Ryan's Flat, a quarter of a mile distant from the main stream, and affords employment to twenty or thirty men, who continue to earn fair wages, notwithstanding that the wash dirt has to be carted a long distance. Water worn masses of greywaeke rest upon the bed rock, mingled with the debris of the limestone formation, and it is possible that the present lead will be followed into the ancient channel of the creek. And now we are on the Devil's Hole Creek, and find that it takes a direction nearly parallel to the enormous quartz reefs which intersect the flats on either bank. These flats swell into ridges, behind which the ranges have a steep ascent, and, gradually closing in, become more elevated as you approach the source of the stream in the Bogie range, on the verge of the plateau. From the junction the stream appears to have wandered at various periods from one side of the valley to the other, until it has finally settled down in its present channel, the main reefs pursuing a direction nearly parallel to its course. A much greater extent of quartzose surface has been presented to the action of this stream than in either Campbell's or Long Creek, or any portion of the Meroo; all of which the reefs simply cross. The quantity of auriferous quartz that has been thus disintegrated in a limited space is enormous, and the yield of gold has been proportionate. Notwithstanding the vast quantity that has been procured in this celebrated locality, it is very far from being exhausted; there are many rich spots in the neighbourhood as yet undiscovered; the reefs, also, are undoubtedly auriferous, and will, one day, command attention when the light of science dispels the ignorance and prejudice of the present mud gropers. Advancing up stream you find that the flats have been extensively worked, and the channel, with the banks, have been cut up in every possible direction, for a distance of two miles, when you arrive at Eaglehawk Gully on the left bank, falling from the ranges that separate the waters of Long Creek. This place, after having been neglected for seven years, has recently been reopened, and proved to be very productive. Beyond this point the creek diverges to the westward, and, leaving the reefs, loses its auriferous character, to a considerable extent. In some favourable spots it may be found payable higher up, and many of the small tributaries, on either side, are worthy of a visit from the prospector. This place has been frequently densely peopled, and is frequently deserted; the last rush took place about two years since. The few diggers that now remain only serve to enhance the general aspect of desolation, although there cannot be less than fifty or sixty, scattered up and down the creek; and there are a few comfortable looking homesteads in the secluded nooks amongst the ridges. A couple of excellent stores on this stream drive a large trade in the surrounding district, and of seven or eight public-houses, that formerly nourished here, but two survive. The waters descending from the table land of the Bogie mountain have cut up an extensive section of the plateau on the western bank of the Devil's Hole, and formed a series of ranges of varied elevation, trending northward to the Meroo. These ranges are all gold-bearing; numerous quartz reefs intersect them, and gullies, flats, and watercourses, presenting every favourable indication, are of frequent occurrence. This district has never been fairly tested; a few prospectors strayed into it in the early days of gold digging, and always obtained what would now be considered a payable prospect. I have conversed with several experienced diggers, who know that gold is to be obtained in that direction, and the reasons they give for not going there are -- first, that they object to open the ground for the benefit of others; secondly, that there would be a difficulty in obtaining supplies; and thirdly, that they can get gold nearer home. Returning again to the junction, we pursue the united stream in its tortuous windings to the Meroo. What has been said of the Devil's Hole still holds good. Following the margin of the creek, we find that the reefs in many instances run parallel to the stream, and in all such places the yield of gold has been important; in some situations points have been favourable to the collection of drift gold, and in others the waters have worn for themselves many channels, all of which, although partially obliterated, have been discovered, worked, and exhausted by the digger. You now pass an extensive wholesale store and slaughtering establishment, to the westward of which some rich chums have been recently opened; a little further and you reach Ayer's Gulley, rich in nuggetty gold. By following up this indentation it is possible that a few rich patches may yet be discovered. You now ascend a low ridge which runs parallel to the stream in the direction of the Devil's Hole. On the summit of this ridge, ex- tending its whole length, a line of trappean rocks may be observed exposed by denudation, and which is an important geological feature in this valley. Ayer's Gully follows the base of this ridge, and the main quartz reefs are to be found on the crown of parallel undulations that descend as they approach the stream. The space between this ridge and the present channel presents indications of being the most auriferous unworked ground in the district; it may be patchy and irregular, but the patches, if discovered, will pay for large amount of unprofitable labour. A quarter of a mile further, you arrive at the far-famed Pure Point. An ancient channel, crossing this neck, of alluvial formation, was discovered at an early date, was enormously rich, has been frequently worked, and is present getting another turn over by a part who have erected two puddling-mills and who find their account in taking all before them. I was going to write that is probably the last raking, but I know that a large proportion of the gold is lost by the present very imperfect method of separating it from the detritus and stiff clays, and I believe that some improved mode of operation will be yet introduced by which every particle of the precious metal will be secured, and when that event occurs all our gold-fields will be reworked. A considerable population is sprinkled over the flats and along the margin of the creek. There is also an inn here, respectably conducted, a thriving little store and a few neat cottages and enclosures, denoting the residence of families permanently settled. Proceeding down stream, a large flat occurs on the western bank, though which the creek at some former time found its way to the Meroo in a channel now obliterated, which has been partially worked, and has so far repaid the labour of the diggers. The present channel has been also very rich, and has provided constant employment for many years to a fluctuating population, particularly to the Chinese, with whom it has ever been a favourite locality. And now passing three or four puddling mills either in active operations or in progress towards completion, we again arrive at the junction of Campbell's Creek, and here terminates our exploration of Upper Meroo with its numerous tributaries; it comprises a large district, still rich in mineral wealth which will yet yield fortunes to a few, and bread all who arc disposed to labour. H. P. Wilson, Esq., the indefatigable agent of the Oriental Bank at Waratra, purchased last year 31,693 ounces 6 dwts. 6 grs. of gold, of which 30,857 ozs. 8 dwts. was the produce of the Upper Meroo, 231 ozs. 13 dwts. 10 grs. of Louisa Creek, and 604 ozs. 12 dwts. 12 grs. of Merrindee; the Bank of New South Wales have also been large purchasers. Add to this the amount still in the hands of the miners, which is considerable; the quantity carried away during the Rockhampton mania, the remittances by the storekeepers and publicans, also considerable; the large proportion hoarded by the Chinese, and the quantity which weekly finds its way into Mudgee, and you will arrive at something like an approximation of the importance of this river, with its tributaries, as a gold-field. I may add, that the Chinese who left this district about Christmas last, after having traversed the gold-fields in every direction, are flocking back fast, bringing many new faces in their train; and large bodies of these people are to be met with marching and counter-marching up and down the river, as if they were concentrating an army. 500 or 600 are doing well at Avisford; about 290 followed a rush Campbell's Creek a few days since, and they have opened several stores up and down the river; two wealthy Chinese importers have also been seen in the main camps recently; and every movement portends a lengthened occupation. They have returned with, an increased respect for the Meroo, and, be it for good or evil, mean to have a share of its gold. And now, taking a farewell of Warratra and the Stirling Inn, so admirably conducted by its worthy and conscientious proprietor, we once more plunge into the Western wilderness.