Sydney Morning Herald 14 July 1859

A VISIT TO THE WESTERN GOLDFIELDS.

BY OUR SPECIAL REPORTER

No. 34.

Leaving the banks of the Cudgegong, and taking the road which crosses the plain, you pass between two farms the property of Mr. G. ROUSE, and reach the entrance of one of those valleys which lead into the heart of the Pinebone Ranges. About a mile up this opening in the mountains it branches off to the right and left, and here a dry watercourse, having its commencement amongst the ranges to the westward, pursues an easterly course, and finding its way round the low hills at the base of the range, discharges its waters, when it has any, into the main stream. Between the large and the lower tier of hills that sink into the plains, a space intervenes, in which a series of conterminous hills and ridges have been formed by the debris from the ranges in the rear. Through these accumulations three or four parallel gorges have been cut by the drainage from the high lands, and the bottom of these gorges are now silted up to the depth of 60 feet at their head, decreasing to about 10 feet, as they open out upon The valley in their centre, shallow watercourses conduct the drainage to the main creek. The most easterly gorge rises with a gentle slope to the summit of a made ridge or table at the foot of a spur descending from a conical hill. Here the rich diggings of Gentawong are situated; they are about five acres in extent at the base of the mountain. The sinking near the base of the declivity, is from 10 to 60 feet in depth, and gradually becomes more shallow as you recede, until the rock rises to the surface, here the gold was first discovered, and followed from thence to the base of the hill, at the extremity of the made ground. Near the surfacing, a shallow ravine sweeps round, and precipitating itself in its passage over a ledge of arenaceous schist, which crosses its channel, falls into the creek. This ravine was enormously rich, from the surfacing to the ledge of rocks, below which it ceased to be payable. The distance does not exceed 500 yards. The main diggings were in the deep ground, and the richest yield was obtained from the centre of the flat, in a line with the crown of the descending spur. From this many leads strike off in different directions, all trending towards the point where the gold rises to the surface, occasionally diverted from the true course by the irregularities of the bed rock: for this reason the lead has often been lost by one party and regained by another in the most improbable situations. No fragmentary quartz can be observed on the surface; but two reefs exist in the vicinity, one of which pusses through the centre of the auriferous debris, the other intersects the lower portion of the conical hill, and crops out on the crest of a connecting saddle immediately over the richest portion of the gold-field. This latter has possibly supplied the gold that has enriched the limited area that has proved so productive. The bed rock varies: now a bright yellow arenaceous schist, then a pale argillaceous schist, these alternating with a calcareous sandstone of a pale buff colour, all in a state of rapid decomposition, with the usual vertical cleavage. The sinking is through an argillaceous arenaceous clay, intermixed with fragments of schistose rocks in various stages of decomposition, and fragments of yellow quartz, which increase as you descend. At an irregular depth the miner passes through a stratum of calcareous conglomerate in which carbonate of lime predominates, this material being supplied by the destruction of the super strata of schistose fragments, of which it is in this locality a large component. Beneath the conglomerate large water-worn pebbles are found, and a red or yellow gravel resting on the rock these pebbles are all formed of rocks to be discovered in situ; small pebbles are scarce, owing to the soft and friable nature of the rocks in the district, the absence of silex, and the presence of lime. The elevation has prevented any inconvenience from water, which is scarce, and the wash dirt is carted two miles to the river. This limited locality has produced more gold than any other in the Western districts of the same extent within the last two years, Burrendong perhaps excepted -- one small claim in the centre of the diggings yielded over £2000 worth of the precious metal to three men in return for a few months' labour other small parties have realised £100 a week, and many have done well. Few places have been so carefully or expeditiously worked, and, if report is correct, no community of diggers have been more thrifty, or made a better use of their earnings. The parallel ravines and gorges have all been fairly prospected, and though all produced gold, it could not be obtained in sufficient quantities to repay the labour of deep sinking -- the surface of the lower ridges are all auriferous, and all pay for puddling, two machines have been recently erected, and the proprietors only await a supply of water to enable them to commence operations, the main creek even under the gullies, falling from the auriferous tract in which the diggings are situated, has never remunerated the digger, and has been very little worked. It will be observed that this little gold-field has apparently been supplied by a single, reef, and it is probable that if it was followed over the ranges, other localities equally rich would be discovered in the heart of the mountains. The diggers huts and tents scattered in clusters up and down the little valley, present an appearance of order and regularity but too seldom to be obtained on a gold-field, the women and children are well clad, and cleanly looking, and the men appear as if of a different race from the wretched besotted creatures that are found wandering up and down the banks of the Meroo. This gold-field is on the private property of Mr. G. Rouse, who has thrown it open to well conducted miners, charging no license, but reserving to himself the supply of all necessaries from his head station, which he charges at rates rather below the average prices in the district; he has hitherto arranged any disputes with reference to claims himself, to the general satisfaction of the diggers. There is but one public-house on the property, which is respectably conducted; and to this fact the prosperity of the diggers may be fairly attributed. At one period this year there were between 300 and 400 miners on this gold-field; as they worked out their claims they went off; n few days since they numbered about 100 men; but the recent rush to Rat's Castle has reduced their numbers, and few now remain; but those who have payable claims not worked out. These diggings may now be said to be nearly exhausted. But four miles to the north-west of the head station at Rapp's Gulley some good prospects have been obtained within the lost week, amongst which was a heavy nugget; thither a select party have moved bag and baggage, and those who know the locality speak of it in the most favourable terms; the German, after whom it takes its name made a considerable sum on the same spot in 1857, and from the time of his departure it has been lost sight of until the present moment. A considerable quantity of gold has been obtained at various times from Reedy Creek, on the north bank of the Cudgegong, about six miles below Guntawong; there are indications of an extensive auriferous tract in the vicinity, the wealth of which has never been fairly tested. At present a large number of Chinese are profitably employed on the river in the neighbourhood of the creek, and also on the creek itself; they display great skill and energy in their operations, and are seldom seen or heard of except when they visit the head station to procure supplies. Two or three parties of whites are also located near the Celestials. Dykes of the auriferous formations descending from the green slopes of the Pinebone Ranges, can be here traced across the plains, and it is most probable that many rich patches would reward the adventurous gold-seeker. And now for Rats Castle, the new rush, to which the digging population are moving en masse from, all parts of the western districts. Ascending the river from Guntawang the path conducts you for four miles through verdant plains, flanked on either side by low hills, those on the south side being the advance guard of the wild regions that stretch to the banks of the Meroo. Groups of gum and box, thinly scattered, vary the prospect, and the winding course of the stream is marked by a dark belt of casuarina or river oak. A precipitous mountain now towers above the swelling hills on the north bank, and overhangs the stream. At the base of the eastern slope a green plain stretches to the margin of the river, which here sweeps round, forming one of those sweet spots so frequent in mountain districts. Here, under the broad shadow of the hill, stands the handsome residence of Mr. F. Bailey, half concealed in a clump of ancient forest trees, in front of a large garden, in which rows of fruit trees may be seen rising over the low fence, separates it from the grassy lawn, round which the stream gathered in a dear deep pool, reflects the sylvan beauties of the place, and seems loath to leave a spot so lovely. On the opposite bank a low continuation of a slope from the hills, from its formation, promises to compensate, by its auriferous treasures, for its want of fertility. Here two or three parties of diggers have pitched their snow-white tents, and if we are to judge by their number of holes dug on the margin of the river, they have not eaten the bread of idleness; whether their labours have been rewarded I could not learn. The river here is certainly payable, but difficult to work; it has been long known that the north bank contains payable quantities, also that the paddock is rich, but the proprietor has hitherto rejected all applications, and will not permit it to be defaced and cut up by a digger, who sees no beauty, except, in a nugget, and who would not scruple to sink a hole in the Garden of Eden if he thought that gold lay at the bottom. Proceeding now, you pass the neat farm of Mrs. Rushby, on the south bank, and arrive at the little creek of Rat's Castle, which here conveys its tiny tribute to the river; you find a road already made to the digging's, following the windings of the waterless channel. The country here gradually ascends, and undulating ridges subside gently to the margin of the stream; as you progress, bands of arenasceous schists crop through the surface, but little or no quartz is exhibited in any form; here and there a small pool is collected in the creek, and in endless procession of men, women, children, pack horses, and carts, string along the road. The declivities now become less steep and you arrive at the little homestead which has given a name to the locality. Here the proprietor, who seldom, if ever, found his solitude disturbed by the presence of a stranger, finds himself beleagured by a host of wild, anxious, bustling men; his little paddock is encompassed by hundreds of tents, of every form and size, and the sound of the axe and falling timber reverberates from hill to hill, stores and butchers' shops have sprung into existence, and the noise of a blacksmith's hammer rings through the forest; all is excitement and commotion. Rumours of the most incredible success fly through the camp, and groups of diggers may be seen discussing their probable prospects: here a man in the midst of an anxious crowd is washing a pan of dirt, and further on others are sinking in the dry channel while lower down the washers are congregated round the few waterholes, and the noise of their cradles adds to the universal din. About half a mile above the farm at the base of a long ridge running parallel to the stream, the channel expands for about a mile, when it again contracts in a ledge of rocks which here crosses its course. Below this ledge a loose debris rests upon the bedrock, varying in depth from four to eight or ten feet, and here the great body of the miners are hard at it, for a mile down the stream the bed of the creek is already staked out and rooted up. Much work has been done in a short time, and but few are satisfied with the result of their labours. All got gold but enough to pay falls to the fortune of but a very few. The first parties who were lucky enough to secure the points are doing well, making from three to seven ounces to the load. The most experienced miners have a high opinion of the locality, which they believe will eventually prove an extensive goldfield. They have little opinion of the Creek, but place their hopes in the ridges as the declivities are so slight, that they believe that the main body of the gold will be found on the benches. The most discouraging feature is the absence of quartz veins of which may be discovered concealed by the debris forming the surface of the low hills. Crossing the dividing ridge to the right, you descend upon Frone's Creek, parallel to Rat's Castle, It was the scene of a former rush, and was soon abandoned; a few men are now located upon it, and seem to be getting gold. Returning to Rat's Castle Creek, and following it upwards, you find that the country continues. flat for two miles, when the Creek enters the Pinebone ranges, where it receives numerous minor streams. If this district is carefully prospected, many isolated patches of payable ground will be discovered, The produce of this new gold-field has been much exaggerated; the diggers, with few exceptions, have not as yet obtained more than enough to encourage them to persevere, and it will be two or three months before its true character can be ascertained. The Pinebones ranges, from Merrrindee to the, neighbourhood of Mudgee, for a distance of thirty miles, give rise to many strengths that are known to contain gold; and it is almost assured that a careful examination of these mountains would result in the discovery of many spots equally rich with Guntawang. The same may be said of the slopes falling into the basin of the Cunjegong, Long intervals of igneous formations of a granite, and basaltic character, denuded by the destruction and removal of the schists, which here are, more arenaceous and calcareous than further to the southward, and consequently more subject to disintegration will occur, and be found unproductive, but where quartz abounds and argellaceous or arenaceous schists are present in their original strata, trending north and south, there will more or less gold be found. The bed of the river is also auriferous throughout its course, the precious metal may be distributed with greater equality than in other streams, and from the depth of the detritus it may be more difficult to work; the breadth and depth of the plains are also unfavourable to those heavy accumulations of gold that have been discovered so frequently on the Meroo and the Turon. There is another rush on the Tableland to a place about eight miles fiom the Louisa, near Dr. Carr's. This ground is undoubtedly auriferous it has already been prospected in the early part of the year, and it is not improbable that a valuable gold field will now be opened in that vicinity; water will be the main difficulty -- always either too much or too little. Within the last two months the body of a German was discovered amidst the mountains, at Merrindee, suspended to a tree by a rag, at such a height that if he stood upright, he could not have been strangled, the limbs were doubled up, and the weight of the body was supported by one arm thrown over limb his pocket had been cut, and no property was found upon his person the man had been missing three weeks, but his mates neither reported his absence, nor instituted any search after him. It is said that he was possessed of a sum of money and a watch, neither of which were forthcoming, and that he was a sober, steady, and hard-working digger. The Black Bungaree who assisted at his burial, in fact who did bury him, reports that his head was broken, and that there was a stab in the region of the loins. He was committed to the earth without a coroner's inquest, and without a post Mortem examination. On a ridge at Campbell's Creek, a few days since, the body of a man was discovered, with a mortal wound in his head. He may have received a fatal blow, but he is supposed to be the victim of rum, and to have fallen amongst the rocks. It is known that he was severely wounded in a scuffle, and the sordid wretch who supplied him with the means of intoxication while suffering from a fractured skull deserves universal execution. Again this present month, at Guntawang, an American negro was knocked down and severely kicked. The next morning he vomited large quantities of blood, and in a few days death terminated his sufferings. He was also buried without an inquest, and without a post mortem examination. A Californian brave might here learnt how easy it is to save the reputation of his country, and glide through forms that serve but to lend security to crime.